DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
Well upon request I have been asked to write a tutorial on this so here it goes.
When should I change my oil?
This is a very common question and often there is no real answer to it because we all ride at different levels, beat the motor more or less, different operating temperatures, and use different oils that last longer or suck ass, etc... When you change your oil stick your nose in the container and give it a good sniff. That is right... Smell the oil and remember this smell. Just like gasoline when it goes bad your oil will smell different too when it needs a changing/is going bad! The other thing to take note of when you change the oil is the color of it. When your oil is nice and new its often "clear" or a very slightly brown color on the dipstick. When this oil becomes a dark dark dirty brown color it's time to drop it. Another reason to drop the oil is if you ride in a lot of water or if you submerge the bike. It is very important to change the oil when riding in water/or after submerging the bike the **** turns into milk and will rapidly degrade your motor components if left alone. Generally a rule of thumb is to change your oil every 5 rides (five decent long rides not short hour or 2 rides) running normal petrol. based oils; if you are running synthetic your change interval is longer. But all and all pretty much go by the methods above and you will be straight!
What do I need to change my oil?
To change your oil you will need 3 quarts of oil (3.2 - 3.3 with an oil cooler), a 19mm socket (I think that is the size), Some allen keys, a new oil filter (I use K&N), a clean paper towel or rag, and a funnel (make one if you don't have one), and a free half hour block of time.
How do I change my oil?
Yes finally we have gotten to the portion in this tutorial that you were looking for - how to change the oil. You should start off by warming up the motor if it is cold - let it warm up so the oil gets warm/hot but not burning hot if your a little wussy lala and don't want to risk getting burned. After your warm up cycle has been completed lift the front of the quad up and stand it on the grab bar in the "12 O' Clock" position. Note: When working under or around the ATV in this position be VERY cautious - the quad may tip over and fall back down with out warning and hurt you or someone else.
Now that we have the quad on the grab bar take off the oil filter cover on the side of the case. The cover is on the stator/flywheel side (shifter side) and has three allen bolts holding it on. Note: When ever you remove any cover that exposes an internal part of the motor ALWAYS clean the surrounding cover area before you remove the cover to free it from dirt/debris that may fall in when the cover is removed and damage the motor later on. Once you have removed the bolts take off the cover (some oil will come out) and check out the O-Ring in the cover and make sure it’s in good condition and that it is still there & clean; set the cover and bolts aside. Pull the oil filter out (take note to how it went in) and make sure that no rubber portion of the filter is still left inside the case (the rubber on the end of the filter likes to stick inside when the filter is removed); remove rubber if this is the case. Inspect your oil filter for any metal shavings or odd objects - if you are golden chuck the filter in the woods or dispose of it in a "normal" fashion
(Neighbors yard). You may now put the new filter in the same way the old one came out and replace the cap and bolts.
Now that our filter is changed its time to drain the oil. The reason I stand the quad up on the grab bar is because I find this to be the most simple way to change the filter and the drain plug is a pain in the ass to get open when the quad is on all 4s' (especially if you have a skid-plate). Take your 19mm socket (I think that is the size) and crack the nut (drain plug) on the bottom of the case loose (you can't miss it). With the plug cracked loose drop the quad back down on all 4s, put your oil pain under the hole and unscrew the loosened plug. When you unscrew the plug there will be a little mesh screen filter in the shape of a cup and a spring. These two things are important so take note in how they come out so you can put them back in! You now sit back grab a cold one and wait... and wait... and wait some more for all the oil to stop draining. When the oil has stopped draining poor a little bit of your new oil into the motor; this helps "wash" some more of the old sitting crappy oil left out - wait tell this is done draining as well. When your all done draining put the mesh screen filter back in (clean any **** out of it if there is something in it) and the spring how it came out. Then go ahead and close up the drain plug and it's onto the next step.
Well we are getting there it is now time to put the new oil in (I use Amsoil 20W50 Motorcycle Full Synthetic). I have found a motor with no oil cooler will take about 2.5 - 2.7 quarts of oil (don’t go by this go by what the dipstick reads) and an oil cooled motor will take about 3.1 - 3.3 quarts. Place your funnel in the oil fill hole (if you don’t have a funnel see below tip on making one) and put in 2.2 quarts to start. Put in your stick after about 2.2 quarts and read the oil level off the stick. If the oil sits between the upper end of the two lines this means it’s full. If it does not read in between the upper half of those two lines add more oil and keep checking until it does. Once the oil does read where it should screw the dipstick back in and start the quad. You want to let the quad run for about 60 seconds, shut it off, and wait a minute. By letting the quad run you have let the oil circulate through the motor; check your oil level again and add more if needed. Once you get a constant oil level in the upper half between the two lines on the stick you are done.
Tips:
How do I make a funnel?
I have found the best way to make a funnel for a quad is to find a bottle that’s neck fits into the case oil fill hole. When you find a bottle like this cut the back end of the bottle off so the bottle is cut in half. Hold the opening of the bottle in the hole and poor the oil in the other side (for cars you can just cut open an empty quart of oil container).
How do I check my oil level correctly?
To check your level follow the steps listed below:
A. Remove the dipstick and clean with a cloth
B. With the machine on a level surface "dip" the dipstick into the case (don’t screw it down!) and lift it up. So the reading is accurate do not tilt the stick upside down or sideways keep it pointing down.
C. When the oil level reads between the upper half of the two lines you are golden; repeat A-C just to make sure.
WTF the oil is so clear I cant read the level on the stick!?
This problem can be corrected by running the motor for a little bit so the oil gets a little brown allowing you to read the level more easily.
But Death isnt that 20W50 Synthetic you run to heavy?
Well no in the summer time I have found the 20W50 weight oil breaks down at a far less speedy rate then a 0-10W oil and is the best for an air cooled motor. I run 0-10w in the winter though!
When should I change my oil?
This is a very common question and often there is no real answer to it because we all ride at different levels, beat the motor more or less, different operating temperatures, and use different oils that last longer or suck ass, etc... When you change your oil stick your nose in the container and give it a good sniff. That is right... Smell the oil and remember this smell. Just like gasoline when it goes bad your oil will smell different too when it needs a changing/is going bad! The other thing to take note of when you change the oil is the color of it. When your oil is nice and new its often "clear" or a very slightly brown color on the dipstick. When this oil becomes a dark dark dirty brown color it's time to drop it. Another reason to drop the oil is if you ride in a lot of water or if you submerge the bike. It is very important to change the oil when riding in water/or after submerging the bike the **** turns into milk and will rapidly degrade your motor components if left alone. Generally a rule of thumb is to change your oil every 5 rides (five decent long rides not short hour or 2 rides) running normal petrol. based oils; if you are running synthetic your change interval is longer. But all and all pretty much go by the methods above and you will be straight!
What do I need to change my oil?
To change your oil you will need 3 quarts of oil (3.2 - 3.3 with an oil cooler), a 19mm socket (I think that is the size), Some allen keys, a new oil filter (I use K&N), a clean paper towel or rag, and a funnel (make one if you don't have one), and a free half hour block of time.
How do I change my oil?
Yes finally we have gotten to the portion in this tutorial that you were looking for - how to change the oil. You should start off by warming up the motor if it is cold - let it warm up so the oil gets warm/hot but not burning hot if your a little wussy lala and don't want to risk getting burned. After your warm up cycle has been completed lift the front of the quad up and stand it on the grab bar in the "12 O' Clock" position. Note: When working under or around the ATV in this position be VERY cautious - the quad may tip over and fall back down with out warning and hurt you or someone else.
Now that we have the quad on the grab bar take off the oil filter cover on the side of the case. The cover is on the stator/flywheel side (shifter side) and has three allen bolts holding it on. Note: When ever you remove any cover that exposes an internal part of the motor ALWAYS clean the surrounding cover area before you remove the cover to free it from dirt/debris that may fall in when the cover is removed and damage the motor later on. Once you have removed the bolts take off the cover (some oil will come out) and check out the O-Ring in the cover and make sure it’s in good condition and that it is still there & clean; set the cover and bolts aside. Pull the oil filter out (take note to how it went in) and make sure that no rubber portion of the filter is still left inside the case (the rubber on the end of the filter likes to stick inside when the filter is removed); remove rubber if this is the case. Inspect your oil filter for any metal shavings or odd objects - if you are golden chuck the filter in the woods or dispose of it in a "normal" fashion
(Neighbors yard). You may now put the new filter in the same way the old one came out and replace the cap and bolts.Now that our filter is changed its time to drain the oil. The reason I stand the quad up on the grab bar is because I find this to be the most simple way to change the filter and the drain plug is a pain in the ass to get open when the quad is on all 4s' (especially if you have a skid-plate). Take your 19mm socket (I think that is the size) and crack the nut (drain plug) on the bottom of the case loose (you can't miss it). With the plug cracked loose drop the quad back down on all 4s, put your oil pain under the hole and unscrew the loosened plug. When you unscrew the plug there will be a little mesh screen filter in the shape of a cup and a spring. These two things are important so take note in how they come out so you can put them back in! You now sit back grab a cold one and wait... and wait... and wait some more for all the oil to stop draining. When the oil has stopped draining poor a little bit of your new oil into the motor; this helps "wash" some more of the old sitting crappy oil left out - wait tell this is done draining as well. When your all done draining put the mesh screen filter back in (clean any **** out of it if there is something in it) and the spring how it came out. Then go ahead and close up the drain plug and it's onto the next step.
Well we are getting there it is now time to put the new oil in (I use Amsoil 20W50 Motorcycle Full Synthetic). I have found a motor with no oil cooler will take about 2.5 - 2.7 quarts of oil (don’t go by this go by what the dipstick reads) and an oil cooled motor will take about 3.1 - 3.3 quarts. Place your funnel in the oil fill hole (if you don’t have a funnel see below tip on making one) and put in 2.2 quarts to start. Put in your stick after about 2.2 quarts and read the oil level off the stick. If the oil sits between the upper end of the two lines this means it’s full. If it does not read in between the upper half of those two lines add more oil and keep checking until it does. Once the oil does read where it should screw the dipstick back in and start the quad. You want to let the quad run for about 60 seconds, shut it off, and wait a minute. By letting the quad run you have let the oil circulate through the motor; check your oil level again and add more if needed. Once you get a constant oil level in the upper half between the two lines on the stick you are done.
Tips:
How do I make a funnel?
I have found the best way to make a funnel for a quad is to find a bottle that’s neck fits into the case oil fill hole. When you find a bottle like this cut the back end of the bottle off so the bottle is cut in half. Hold the opening of the bottle in the hole and poor the oil in the other side (for cars you can just cut open an empty quart of oil container).
How do I check my oil level correctly?
To check your level follow the steps listed below:
A. Remove the dipstick and clean with a cloth
B. With the machine on a level surface "dip" the dipstick into the case (don’t screw it down!) and lift it up. So the reading is accurate do not tilt the stick upside down or sideways keep it pointing down.
C. When the oil level reads between the upper half of the two lines you are golden; repeat A-C just to make sure.
WTF the oil is so clear I cant read the level on the stick!?
This problem can be corrected by running the motor for a little bit so the oil gets a little brown allowing you to read the level more easily.
But Death isnt that 20W50 Synthetic you run to heavy?
Well no in the summer time I have found the 20W50 weight oil breaks down at a far less speedy rate then a 0-10W oil and is the best for an air cooled motor. I run 0-10w in the winter though!
