gen1pat...

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

warriorgirl09

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Messages
1,710
Reaction score
0
Location
Arkansas
I just rebuilt the v6 and trans in my brothers 93 toyota. I cant get it to stop overheating! it's driving me crazy! it didn't run hot before the rebuild. Got new bearings, rings and all that crap... re shimmed the valves to within spec, new oil pump, water pump and timing belt. i broke the coolant temp sensor putting it in the truck (someone borrowed my hoist so i had to use the backhoe) so i put all new temp sensors on (all 3 since i wasn't paying) the radiator is good... like i said it cooled fine before the rebuild but i've not changed the thermostat. It get's up to operating temp and will stay there for 30 min or so then decide to overheat and i've burped the cooling system and i'm getting pissed! with the cap off the radiator i've not been able to get it to over heat but it blows the coolant out the filler neck... any ideas?
 
Is it a pressure cap? I don't remember if my ol 90 had o.e or not. If it is it could be stuck shut not slowing the pressure to release.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
replied. i'm going to pull the thermostat tomorow and boil it and drill a few small holes in it as recommended on yotatech
 
If that doesn't work, switch to a lower temp. thermostat. Also an aftermarket radiator cap could cause problems as well, if you have one.
 
has the factory 180 (lowest available) i have a 160 in my truck (sucks in the winter) but for the 3vze's they only make 180, 190, 192, and 195. original cap
 
Wow, usually when I see that it's one of two things, air locked or a head gasket. It shouldn't be a head gasket b/c they're new but anything is possible. WG, of you can get or you have a chemical tester for exhaust gasses in the coolant I'd start with that and just for poops remove the thermostat completely and see how it does.
 
I'm drainning the cooling system now. bout to take the t-stat out and test it and put a couple more holes in it to bleed air. I'm gonna run it without one to see how it acts. I high doubt a headgasket... I've never had new felpro's leak and the heads have been surfaced
 
well i tried the t-stat and it works right... i drilled another hole in it and it seems to work ALOT better but still isn't right. i think it's still holding air
 
well i took the radiator out and cleaned it out with lime-away and put a new 180 degree t-stat in it and still the same thing. it looks like the radiator isn't flowing enough. i'm thinging it was flowing enough to cool the old wore out engine and now that everything is new and VERY tight it's not flowing enough to cool it. bout to desolder the top cap on it since it's all brass and scrub all the flues out and solder it all back together.. if i can confirm thats the problem i'll have my brother buy an aluminum 3 row radiator to go in it!
 
i think i just got it! i took the old t-stat apart (so i had just the flat metal piece with the hoop on it) so i'd be able to use the rubber seal on it and put it in and it all flowed and wouldn't get up to operating temps so i knew it was a air pocket. i also pulled all the plugs and they had a light grey tint (perfect) and run compression on em all and the hit 150 psi (give or take 3 psi) which isn't bad for a fresh motor with less than 5 miles on it. SO i took the new t-stat and drilled 3 extra holes and BAM she runs at operating temps! just drove it about 5 miles (12 at night so i didn't wanna go to far) before it would run hot in about a half a mile so i'mma give her a real test tomorrow
 
update? Sounded vapor-locked to me(air pocket) as well.
Did ya get it?
 
Good to hear. Some vehicle will make you pull your hair out. I've had some Subaru pancake engines be a motherfucker to purge.
 
Back
Top