ASR Tie-Rod Ends

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bbbthreat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2007
Messages
507
Reaction score
0
Location
Santa Ynez
I just installed some new ASR Tie Rod ends on my Warrior, however, they seem to feel a little loose. I have the nuts tightened down and cotter pins installed, however, there is a little play in them, in moving up and down in the inlets for the hubs and steering stem, which kind screws up the allignment and makes me feel uneasy (tires move as a result). Anybody with ASR ends ever have this problem?
 
Can you buy just the tie rod ends without the rods?

And did you definitely order them with a yamaha taper? Ones for hondas will look similar, but the taper isn't right and they'll move around in the mounting hole.
 
ASR sells them without the rods as replacments for OEM. They were ordered for the Warrior and were labeled as such. The threading was correct for the rods and the taper on the ends for perfectly into the hubs holes and steering stem. Just there is play up and down of about half a centimeter.
 
Do you have them tightened down it all the way? If the taper is right they should pull down tight just like the stock ones do.
 
I did not tighten them down all the way. I was unsure at first just, due to the fact that most of the nuts I took off were tightened only down so far as to install the cotter pins. If it's something as simple as that, then I am a freaking retard. lol I'll check on doing that tomorrow when I work on it again.
 
Haha yeah, that'll do it. If your nuts were only tightened up to the cotter pins before, it's probably because they vibrated loose and the pins were the only thing holding them on anymore. Once you get the nut all the way snug give it a couple extra turns, to press the taper into the socket. Don't go overboard on it though, or you'll never get them back out. I'd say about a turn and a half past snug should do it.
 
Holy balls. Those nuts should be torqued down and be very tight before the cotter key is put in. If you get them torqued and the holes don't line up for the cotter key, tighten the nut don't loosen it so the holes line up.
 
I know a trick to getting them out. BFH and hit the spindle on the side where the ball joint goes into the tapper or install a nut on the threads more then half way.. don't use the castle nut you'll wreak the threads. Usally the ball joint will pop right out with the first three hits.
 
YAY! De-de-duh! I'm officially retarded! lmao I feel really stupid...thanks guys ;D.

Seriously, I appreciate your help on this...glad it is just operator error and nothing serious. This site rules!
 
Back
Top