Another warrior that will only roll start?

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Alot of people get stators from RM stators. I think I saw one that was a higher output for about 150 or could have been around 200.
 
I am really hoping that this stator solves my problem. It is weird because the spark, and charging of my battery slowly faded from the time my warriors problem began until now. Everything didnt fail at once. I didnt know that a stator can slowly go bad. but who knows, I will give it a shot and post my results.
 
Like I keep saying, when you use the starter it will only spin over at a set rpm. When you roll start it, and its in gear it will spin over faster then the starter will turn it, thus sending a better signal through the stator and then getting the spark needed. Stators are a electrical component, they are not like a mechanical part than wears over time and you can see it or hear it. Sometimes they just go at once or will go slow.
 
yea I understand what you mean. Can you explain how it gets no power at sparkplug at all when using the start button, however starts instanly when i pop the clutch. I just dont see how that happens. it seems that the power would still have to go throught the stator? I even took the battery out and it still roll started instanly. I dont see where the power is coming from to spark it with no battery and the stator being bad.
 
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The power comes from the stator batt or not when you roll start. Think of it like a small engine. They have a coil and then the flywheel, on that flywheel is a magnet, when it passes the coil it fires. Thats how most electric motors work its wires in a magnet field. Thats pretty much what a stator is. The coil part of it is bolted in, on the crank is magnet or pick coil part when those two pass they create the signal of field needed for the spark.

When you use the starter it will not spin fast enough to send or pick up that signal. Roll start your rpm's are faster and stronger than the starter. The start may spin it half of what you idle at, roll start is what ever the rpm's for first gear are, so thats why it roll starts. It spins faster creates a better signal for stator thus making a better spark.
 
No problem, why I liked working on small engines, been around them all my life and can do most if not all vehicle repairs as well.
 
Not yet. I ordered the rm stator and gasket last night. It will take 3-6 days for it to get to my house. In the mean time I am going to take off the front nose peice and check all wires and connections under there.
 
This is kind of off topic, but is it hard to get the front nose peice off without breaking it? Mine has never been removed and my plastics are perfect so I dont want to risk messing them up. Anyone have any advice for taking it off to get to the coil?
Thanks
 
There should be a few bolts to take off then it should be able to remove might have to undo some other bolts to get to come off.
 
I took off the old stator today. The only problems I had were the two screws that hold the metal peice that goes over the wires beside the stator. I nearly striped both of the and had to use a punch to break them free.

A tip to anyone who is planing to remove a stator:
-On all 5 main screws that hold on the stator and pickup coil I used visegrips and clamped them to the head of the screw and they all broke free easily. (They are extremly tight and cannot be turned with a screwdriver and a power drill will strip them quick!!.)
 
for the hood: unbolt it, then take out the screws that hold it to the tank cover, lift it up frpm the front and it should hinge out from the tank cover.

You wnat to use locktite when you put your stator bolts back in.
 
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Did anyone have a chance to look at the picture i posted? maybe some of you guys will recognize those wires.
Thanks
 
the circle clamp on end wire goes on the right side coil mount underneath it. it actually goes all the way back to the main neg. battery cable. im not sure but i think it helps the coil ground better. as for the other wire ill see if i can match something on mine in the morning.
 
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