2 shock questions...

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

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What is the secret to turning the collars that set the preload? I tried a screwdriver and a hammer, Channel locks, and vise grips and I cannot get those fuckers to turn. Do I need a spring compressor or something to take the load off. I'm starting to **** up the soft metal and I'm also starting to get pissed off which is usually bad news for the part I'm working on. Anyone up late?
 
There should actually be a tool for those. My buddies Predator came with on in the tool kit, if you know anybody with one see if it will fit. If not you can buy one somewhere.
 
It's called a spanner wrench. First you LOOSEN off the top one, the you can adjust the lower one.

And for the record, the Rappy shock has the same adjustments as the banshee shock: Preload, compression and rebound.

You can get either shock for about the same money. I got my rappy shock for 75.00.
 
Yea, I know the top one is the "lock nut". But for some reason I can't get the top one to break loose. I got tired of f-ing with it so I just installed the shock the way it was. I wonder if the spring itself on the Banshee shock is softer than that of the Warrior shock. Right now both springs are compressed to about the same height. And I'm sure that getting those collars to turn while on the bike will be even harder. Is the preload the more important adjustment if I'm trying to get a softer feel in the rear or is it the compression?
 
Thanks man. Appreciate the help. Not to bug you too much, but what about the rebound and the preload. What effect do they have on real world riding situations. Tyrin' to learn a little about suspension setup.
 
Not buggin at all. The whole point of these forums is to share information.

the preload is there to adjust for your weight and sag of the machine. I'm a fat bastard, so i have my spring cranked. Keep in mind the more you "preload" the spring , you are reducing the travel of the shock.

Rebound: This is probablly one of the most critical adjustments on your shock. It' controls how fast the shock returns to full lenght after being compressed.

Here's how i adjust mine: Find a place with a decent whoop section. Try and go through them as fast as you can. If you find your back end is "bucking" you, then you need to turn the adjuster in, to "slow" down the return rate. If you find that over the final end of the whoops the shock is bottoming out, then you need to turn the adjuster out, to "speed" up the return rate. The more you test and tune the more you'll understand how it works, thus in turn you will be a faster rider.
 
Thanks again. That is the exact situation I am trying to fix. The trails I ride are rutted and washed out all to hell. If I'm haulin ass and I cross a rut (perpendicular), I'll pull up the front end and when the rear wheels hit it I damn near come over the bars sometimes. Is that rebound or is that compression(or lack of skill lol). I'm talking about going over 1 rut or a downed tree(slower of course). I'm thinking that one single impact is compression and multiple bumps is rebound. Close?
 
Could be all three.... (haha)
If your compression is too hard,(turned in too far) or preload is too much, then your suspension is not compressing to absorb the whoops.
I'd try turning your rebound in 4 clicks and try it again. If it improves, then you're on the right track.

As far as skill goes, you want to maintain a steady throttle, and try and touch the front tires on the tops of each whoop. Lean back as far as you can and "float" the front end.
 
10-4. I'm a little too old to be learning to ride but I can finally afford this money pit off a hobby!
 
I hear ya. It's no different than being 18, just takes a little longer to recover from a wipeout! Anyway, thanks again for the help.
 
yeah its a hook looking tool

but i used a vise grip and pushed down as hard as i could on the shock and just turned the dial and i slid into place with out the tool so i did it without the tool but it was a pain lol
 
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