+2 Full Flight adjustments

[BigOkie]

I bought some used +2 Full Flights. I installed them a few days ago to see how they fit. The castor on the right side was way more positive than the left side, which was about 2 degrees positive. When I tried to adjust the inside heims on the right upper a-arm, they wouldn't move in or out. I've been squirting PB Blaster on the threads every day and today I gave it my best try with a cresent wrench on the flat part of the heim and the a-arm braced on a 2x4. It was a no go. I need some ideas how to break the damn heims loose without screwing them up. A thin cresent wrench is about all you can get on the flat part and it still hits the cup area. A little help please.

 

[lbjamm]

Does yours have a locknut like mine? Maybe you already loosened the locknut. If so, I don't know what else you could do other than some heat with a small propane torch.

 

[BigOkie]

I loosened the locknut as far as it would go and was going to use a wrench on it to unscrew the heim but thought it would screw up the threads and I'd never be able to move it again. I might heat it up and do that anyway. I think I'll quit buying used ****.

 

[BigOkie]

I braced it better and got a bigger wrench. It was tight as hell out to the last thread. I wire brushed it, oiled it and it went back in by hand till I got to same point I started at, then it stopped dead. I really need it to go in three or four more threads. Now I'll have to back out the others. At least I didn't ruin it. Just dinged it up a little.

 

[Warrior1996]

So are the ball joint threads bad or is the a arm thread bad? I'd run a tap through that a arm and clean the threads up.

 

[BigOkie]

It's got to be the a-arm threads. I had the same problem with one tie rod. The ball joint would stop half way in. I tried to tap it with my harbor freight tap and the tap locked up. I guess I'll have to buy some better taps.

 

[Warrior1996]

Make sure you are using a lubricant with the tap or it will lock up/break every time

 

[BigOkie]

The a-arm threads are sae and my sae tap and dies are good ones. I tapped the arms and got some grunge out. Ever thing is turning smoothly but I keep putting parts on and taking them off for adjustments. If I ever get that Lsr swingarm I'll get it together for a test drive before spring. I ordered 54" dual front brake lines and got a 3 line kit instead. Had to send it back. I put my new wheels and tires on and snapped a couple of pics. With the back ones flipped it should look about like the finished product will.

 

[Warrior1996]

Sweet, bike is looking nice man!

 

[lbjamm]

Looks great

 

[jimmyde78]

Looks really good Okie!

 

[BigOkie]

After I took some pics I did some measuring and the right front wheel was an inch further forward from the rear wheel than the left front wheel was from its rear wheel. I thought maybe I had the rear axle adjustment off so I measured from the foot pegs and nerfs with the same results. I screwed out the back lower heim on the left side till I had the same length from the foot peg to the shock mount on both sides. This brought up some questions since I never did this before. Is it common to have the heims screwed out quit a bit further on one side compared to the other side? Also the gap at the frame looks too big to just tighten the heim mounting bolt without putting in a washer. I have a pic that might explain better.

 

[BigOkie]

Here's a couple more.

 

[lbjamm]

I used washers on mine. You need to have all the slack removed or else your castor will keep changing.