moparluvr said:
Great. thanks.Do them wires on the handle need to be squeezed in front to release them? I am wanting to do this so I can put an easy pull lever for the wife. The stock one seems kinda stiff. this is my first quad I ever purchased. Any reccomendations, ? I heard the stock air filter is noy too tight of a setup? should I get a whole new setup?
Thanks again
EZ-pull clutch perches aren't the way to go, they really don't fix what causes the stiff clutch on the warrior, they just put more leverage on the cable which decreases the overall clutch travel, possibly so much that it won't fully disengage. Take a look in our tutorials section or do a search for the Raptor 350 clutch release conversion. Basically it takes about $40 worth of parts including a new cable to convert the warrior's system to the Raptor 350's setup, a much easier, smoother, and better designed system. You can keep the stock clutch perch or swap it out with an aftermarket one, i'm partial to the MSR clutch perches myself, hell of a good deal for a nice perch.
As far as dealing with the wiring if you do replace the stock clutch perch, here's the quick version of it. You'll have 2 switches and therefore 2 wires coming off the clutch perch, running down under the hood, so you'll have to take off the headlights and hood to get to the connectors. You shoud find that one of these wires has a single white plastic connector, just disconnect that one and let it hang there, your parking brake sensor is now bypassed. The other wire coming from the perch will have 2 spade connectors. Unplug both of them and you should find that one is a male, other is a female. Plug them together and the clutch safety switch is also bypassed, just be careful because it'll start regardless of it being in gear or the clutch released.
Yes, the stock air filter setup is about as shitty as they come. If you've had it apart you probably noticed that it relies on the airbox lid to hold it perfectly in position, and a thin foam donut as a gasket to seal the filter against the flange in the airbox. So if everything doesn't go together perfectly, and it's very easy to get the filter in a little cattywompus, you won't know you made mistake til you take it apart to clean it again and find out that you've been sucking in all the dust and dirt into your engine.
Simple solution, replace the stock filter with a Pro Design air filter kit. It's just an aluminum adapter that gets screwed onto the flange in the airbox, and a clamp on air filter that fits onto that adapter. Pretty much no way to put it together wrong this way, so even at $80 for the kit it's cheap insurance that you're not going to ruin your engine from sucking in dirt and debris. You can get them with either a UNI foam filter or a K&N cotton filter. It's your choice, personal preference, but I will spend the extra 10 or 15 bucks for a K&N every time, they're just a hell of a lot nicer to work with, quick and easy to clean and re-oil without making a sticky mess of everything.
With the clamp on filter kit you can leave the airbox lid off if you want to, you'll get more dirt and mud into your filter if you ride in really dusty, muddy, or wet conditions, but if you don't fit into that category you can get a few horsepower out of leaving that lid off and rejetting the carb. You will have to rejet it though or it'll be too lean, the stock airbox lid is quite a bit more restrictive than it looks.
