Thanks a lot everyone. Yamarider you were extremely helpful! I ordered a black blockoff plate and a new set of pads. Might as well do it all at once. I really appreciate all the help from this board.
What is the main reasons for getting rid of the parking brake cable?
1) Clean up the Left side handlebar area?
2) Get rid of the sticky adjuster on the Caliper?
3) Any other reasons?
Just wondering why a lot of people dp this mod. Thank you.
Yuasa YTX14AH-BS. It has 210 cranking amps vs 165 for the Warrior battery. Maintence free! And built in the USA. I paid $85 through my local place. (Magic Racing) Well worth the money. Don't skimp or buy some overseas garbage.
I replaced the cable today and it is sooooo smooth. Plus I extended the clutch arm (on the motor) by cutting and rewelding. I made it 1/2" longer, what a difference. The cable is adjusted pretty far out right now. Still adjusting the arm, and trying to find the perfect position. The clutch...
Well I unhooked the cable today and I can hardly move it! I can't believe how bad it is. I ordered a Motion Pro on eBay for $13.50 shipped. I'm also going to cut and reweld the arm on the clutch cover to give it better leverage. Not my idea, but sounds like it would work. I'll let everyone know...
Today I changed out the break in oil. Now if you pull the clutch in and release it, the lever stays in, then slowly comes out! Even if it isn't running. Just walk up, squeeze the lever and release it, and watch it slowly come out. I don't remember it doing that before. Any ideas?
I finally got this thing running good after a new piston, and carb rebuild. Now to the problem....
I have to let the clutch lever out all the way before it starts to move. Feels like its not in gear! Once you get it moving, you can go through the gears and it pulls good. Doesn't seem to slip at...
After ordering a acclerator pump kit and rebuilding my carb, here is the conclusion.
The Warrior ran better then ever, for about a 1/2 tank of gas. I shut it off numerous times and let it cool completely (still breaking it in) and it would always start and idle fantastic. Then it started...
They should at least give you the rubber boot with the kit. Because you have to buy all three pieces and it ended up costing me $40 after taxes and everything. Seen it for $26 through Seattle Motorsports but $13 shipping! You can ship that for a $1. What a ripoff. I would rather give my local...
I'm rebuilding the carb from my '95. My rebuild kit didn't come with the rubber boot for the Accelerator pump plunger. Its the small rubber piece that snaps into the carb body under the float bowl.
Does anyone know where I can find the rubber boot?
This Warrior has been stripped but has a couple pf parts left.
Let me know what you want, and I'll give you a GREAT price.
1) LH lower and upper control arms.
2) Front bumper (no black ends) slightly dented, still usable
3) Complete rear brake setup, WITHOUT caliper assy.
4) Factory silver...
Those are some really good points. The old motor smoked very badly. The exhaust was full of oil. I had it powdercoated (baked at 350-400 degrees) But I still think the baffle has a lot of oil in it. Maybe it takes time for the exhaust to heat up and burn out the old oil? I'm rebuilding the carb...