Replacing rear rotor and pads, is it hard???

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blue06raptor

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hey guys, I took my Raptor to get checked out and I was told that my rear rotor had overheated and was wavy ,and my pads are worn more from one side than the other. There's no other choice but to replace them both.
Now my question to you is how difficult is it to replace these (the rear rotor and pads) yourself? I am new to quads , but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, not to mention I have to buy the rotor and pads (OEM replacement) which are like $75 , and i dont really feel like paying another $75-$80 in labor that i can do myself.
any advice is appreciated.
 
Pads: piece of cake! Will only take you 5 min, a 12mm socket to get the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the mount. then a 10mm socket to remove the 2 pins that hold the pads in the caliper.

Rotor: This may be a bit tricky if you can't get the bolts out that hold the rotor to the hub(allen heads). If you can get them off, great, undo the bolts, take off the right side tire and hub and presto chango!
 
not hard at all, take the caliper off (2), unbolt the rotor (4?) then the 2 nuts on the outside of the caliper that have the lock spacer thing, take them out and replace the pads and reassemble, you may need to bleed the brakes
 
i doubt you will have to unless you end up taking the brake lines off. I had metal to metal (groved into the calaper metal) and I didn't have to bleed them. It was just a little full on the resivour.

not completley sure on how to bleed them, but it should be similar to a car i would think
 
Yeah, there's no reason you would need to bleed the brakes to simply swap out the rotor and pads.
 
one thing you need to be careful with is the rotor bolts DONT STRIP THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the previous owner of min rounded the allen head on two of the bolts.
i ended up welding a 3/8 nut on them to get them out
it should bee pretty easy
 
DO NOT BUY OEM.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1. stock pads....they got to **** in a half of season ( and i hardly use them) get the ebc sintered metal pads...they are great!!!!!!!!!! also if you are going to buy a new rotor dont buy a new one sped the little extra and it will make your pads last longer......get a drilled and if you can affoord it also wave......makes a huge difference so they say...i have the pads but i need a new rotor it is a litle scored and i think it is warped cause one side of my pads wear faster then the other
 
u might need to bleed the brakes i just out a brand new rotor and ebc brakes on my warrior its pretty easy but follow their advice its all good but to bleed the brakes its a lil box on the handlebars where the throttle is u unscrew that make sure the fluid doesnt spill out though u need it its called dot4 brake fluid u get at any car shop any way while u have that off u have to unscrew another lil screw right on the caliper that bleeds it then u adjust the hydraulic in the caliper so it fits your pads on the rotor and so it touches the rotor tightly and only move when u want it to.you have to do all of this while the quad is elevated of course so you could spin the back tire to your preference of how sensitive u want the brakes to be. i know this was long but i hope it helps
 
u got a warrior? cus i did that **** from the front one and thats how i released it. i know where ur talking about but i dont think thats the right place
 
wow smart kid right there using the front resivour to bleed the back brake haha
 
u might need to bleed the brakes i just out a brand new rotor and ebc brakes on my warrior its pretty easy but follow their advice its all good but to bleed the brakes its a lil box on the handlebars where the throttle is u unscrew that make sure the fluid doesnt spill out though u need it its called dot4 brake fluid u get at any car shop any way while u have that off u have to unscrew another lil screw right on the caliper that bleeds it then u adjust the hydraulic in the caliper so it fits your pads on the rotor and so it touches the rotor tightly and only move when u want it to.you have to do all of this while the quad is elevated of course so you could spin the back tire to your preference of how sensitive u want the brakes to be. i know this was long but i hope it helps

Wow, did you ever actually bleed brake lines before? Because that's nothing like how you need to do it. Not a single thing you said there really makes any sense except dot 4 brake fluid (and really you don't need dot 4 either). But still, there's absolutely no reason to bleed lines just from installing a rotor. Anybody that understands how a brake system works knows this. I'm not trying to make you look like a moron, but if you don't know what you're talking about, then don't misguide others by pulling stuff like this out of your ass.
 
hes not doin just rotors i fucked up with the resovouir thing but thats how u do it when u change the brakes which is what he is doin read what he said b4 u talk
 
hes not doin just rotors i fucked up with the resovouir thing but thats how u do it when u change the brakes which is what he is doin read what he said b4 u talk

No, that's not even remotely close to how you bleed your brake lines. You pump the lever a few times, crack the bleeder valve open while you're still applying pressure, then close the bleeder and repeat until there's no more bubbles coming out of the line.

And get smart with me and you're outta here tough guy. The last thing this site needs is another smartass to start pointless arguements. I can already see you're going to be a pain in the ass, it takes a real genius to tell a moderator he's wrong, when you clearly don't have the slightest clue what you're talking about.
 
wow guys im sorry for that i was out i just got home 10 mins ago and my 14 yr old brother was on my computer all night playin games and on this site he doesnt know what he is talkin about he saw my dad do brakes one time and thinks he knows everything im sorry if he offended anyone
 
Woh Woh, take it easy, you been registered for 4 days, no need to get on anyones bad side already let alone one of the moderators.
 
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