i have the stroker and love it. plenty of torque. hasnt given me any problems at all. would keep up with my friend's LTR in the woods (keep up mind you, not beat) till he got a k&n and a cherry bomb.... will see how it does after i find an edelbrock.
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hotrods crank
- Thread starter fearnofish06860
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dswwarrior350
Well-Known Member
mattynice said:I spoke with a Hotrods sales rep on the phone about their stroker crankshaft and piston combo a while back. I was told it was stroked 4mm not 7mm which puts the total (+1mmbore and +4mmstroke) at 379cc not 396cc. Hotrods website lists it at 4mm but Dennis Kirk and Ebay-sellers list it as 7mm. (Although in Hotrods FAQ section it says 7mm). Has anyone measured it? I can't imagine Dennis Kirk not confirming it to be 7mm. Either way, 4mm or 7mm, I would run it with an oil-cooler. Are you sure you need a new crank? Why not just get your crank rebuilt...it's cheaper! http://www.cycleworksracing.net/labor.htm has it listed at $85 plus parts and put the rest of your money elsewhere. If you dont already have an edelbrock carb then spend your money on one.... it's AWESOME! (best with K & N and pipe). I got my edelbrock off Ebay for $250. The warrior will really come to life and is super reliable. An engine that is over-modified by extreme stroking and boring will definitely give you problems. Who the hell wants to wake-up eager on Saturday only to find out their quad won't start because their rings are bad from overheating or their head gasket is leaking. Engineers at Yamaha optimized the cylinder head and walls to transfer heat as necessary. I don't care what mechanics say, (I should know) about life span.....it depends on where and how you ride, temp, etc. If you want 400cc then save your money, sell your warrior, and buy a 400cc quad.
I'm sorry but a drop in stroker isnt exactly what i would call extreme stroking. It has been proven time and time again on these boards that any professionally installed and built stroker is extremely reliable with or without an oil cooler. whether it be a drop in or an FST 446. The warrior motor is damn near bulletproof even modded. Naturally anything that you take out and beat every single weekend is going to require some parts here and there, but to be honest the warrior motor is one of the most rock solid platforms to build on. Not saying it makes as much power as the others but as long as the parts are matched correctly even a stroked motor will last years with regular matienence.
I've never had anything motor wise fail yet. The only problem i ever had was losing a valve tappet and locking up the cam.... but that was my own fault. Sad part is i took it home and had it running fine again the same day. Then again i dont have a stroker... but i am damn near maxed out as far as non stroked mods go. I can't really go any bigger than whats in it.
I also second getting an edelbrock... but i dont think its really worth it untill you get into the motor a little bit. It was an increase in the seat of pants department. But not a huge increase. A cam and set of valvesprings is money better spent as far as power goes. Adding the brock later down the road when more mods are done will really take advantage of the carb.
Do i think you should stroke it? Well thats up to you. But in my honest opinion i feel you should go a diffrent route than drop in. A built stroker crank from somewhere like FST or CWR would be the way to go as far as power. But if you want to get 400cc's cheap and easy then go drop in. However i dont really know how much you would be gaining on someone who has a full built motor or the power etc. I've never had one nor have i ever been around one. Everyone who has them loves them so you cant really go wrong.
dswwarrior350
Well-Known Member
Also holy **** old thread
It seems I may have been misunderstood since two riders seem to have problems with my posting. The individual who first posted on this page asked in his second posting…..
“yeah, I think it might be 396, but I’m not positive but I might have to replace my crank, and it’s like the same price to go that route than it is to go the stock route, and I talked to the guy at alba (not getting it done by them, or from them) but he said they run it all day long with no problems, and I just some conformation on that you know?”
It seems the individual fearnofish06860 did not know if his crank was bad and was considering getting a Hotrods-Stroker if his crank was bad because he believes it to be the same price as stock (or stock Hotrods crank). Well it is not the same price and if money is the problem, which it sounds like it is, than a rebuilt crank would definitely be the way to go. Just plug in rebuilt-ATV-crankshafts into Google and see how many companies do this work cheaper + parts than buying any of Hotrods crankshafts. Not to mention the Stoker piston alone is $250.
I do understand a Hotrods-Stroker is cheaper than if you had your stock crank stroked (most of the time). I was not trying to imply that stroking a stock crank is cheaper.
Higher compression and temperatures (strokers and big bores) can cause premature warping of the cylinder head. Upon cooling to room temperature, the head and cylinder contract which can cause a leak at the head gasket the next time you start your cold engine. Most times (for the warrior) just tightening the head bolts can fix the problem. So yes indeed a head gasket can leak (seen it many times). Not that it’s the end of the world…just a pain in the ass when you just want to load the quad and get riding with your buddies.
For the warrior,+ 4mm and most definitely +7mm stroking is what I would call extreme. Every man has his own definition. I guess extreme to some would be so large that it requires increasing the deck height and getting an extended cam chain. For the “stock” warrior head and cylinder I think +7mm is extreme. I also understand that many have reliable bored and stroked motors but I think most have issues…especially if the individual does not maintain it….clearances etc. I also believe most use an oil cooler…..why not use one with $1000 invested already?
The easiest/simplest way to increase power on your warrior is and Edelbrock Carb. It is very expensive but easier than (for the amateur) installing a cam, springs, checking clearances, and timing etc. Although a performance cam is awesome you really need to be honest with yourself on what type of riding you do. Don’t buy a race cam if you’re always in the low to mid range. With the edelbrock it doesn’t matter because it’s always crisp with enhanced power throughout the entire range. Therefore, I think an Edelbrock is the best mod you can do.
“yeah, I think it might be 396, but I’m not positive but I might have to replace my crank, and it’s like the same price to go that route than it is to go the stock route, and I talked to the guy at alba (not getting it done by them, or from them) but he said they run it all day long with no problems, and I just some conformation on that you know?”
It seems the individual fearnofish06860 did not know if his crank was bad and was considering getting a Hotrods-Stroker if his crank was bad because he believes it to be the same price as stock (or stock Hotrods crank). Well it is not the same price and if money is the problem, which it sounds like it is, than a rebuilt crank would definitely be the way to go. Just plug in rebuilt-ATV-crankshafts into Google and see how many companies do this work cheaper + parts than buying any of Hotrods crankshafts. Not to mention the Stoker piston alone is $250.
I do understand a Hotrods-Stroker is cheaper than if you had your stock crank stroked (most of the time). I was not trying to imply that stroking a stock crank is cheaper.
Higher compression and temperatures (strokers and big bores) can cause premature warping of the cylinder head. Upon cooling to room temperature, the head and cylinder contract which can cause a leak at the head gasket the next time you start your cold engine. Most times (for the warrior) just tightening the head bolts can fix the problem. So yes indeed a head gasket can leak (seen it many times). Not that it’s the end of the world…just a pain in the ass when you just want to load the quad and get riding with your buddies.
For the warrior,+ 4mm and most definitely +7mm stroking is what I would call extreme. Every man has his own definition. I guess extreme to some would be so large that it requires increasing the deck height and getting an extended cam chain. For the “stock” warrior head and cylinder I think +7mm is extreme. I also understand that many have reliable bored and stroked motors but I think most have issues…especially if the individual does not maintain it….clearances etc. I also believe most use an oil cooler…..why not use one with $1000 invested already?
The easiest/simplest way to increase power on your warrior is and Edelbrock Carb. It is very expensive but easier than (for the amateur) installing a cam, springs, checking clearances, and timing etc. Although a performance cam is awesome you really need to be honest with yourself on what type of riding you do. Don’t buy a race cam if you’re always in the low to mid range. With the edelbrock it doesn’t matter because it’s always crisp with enhanced power throughout the entire range. Therefore, I think an Edelbrock is the best mod you can do.
jasonp
Well-Known Member
Yeah there are a billion places that do rebuild work. Make sure and ask them what they use for parts as I bet it is cheap junk as well as making sure the crank half's are trued to with in spec.mattynice said:It seems I may have been misunderstood since two riders seem to have problems with my posting. The individual who first posted on this page asked in his second posting…..
“yeah, I think it might be 396, but I’m not positive but I might have to replace my crank, and it’s like the same price to go that route than it is to go the stock route, and I talked to the guy at alba (not getting it done by them, or from them) but he said they run it all day long with no problems, and I just some conformation on that you know?”
It seems the individual fearnofish06860 did not know if his crank was bad and was considering getting a Hotrods-Stroker if his crank was bad because he believes it to be the same price as stock (or stock Hotrods crank). Well it is not the same price and if money is the problem, which it sounds like it is, than a rebuilt crank would definitely be the way to go. Just plug in rebuilt-ATV-crankshafts into Google and see how many companies do this work cheaper + parts than buying any of Hotrods crankshafts. Not to mention the Stoker piston alone is $250.
I do understand a Hotrods-Stroker is cheaper than if you had your stock crank stroked (most of the time). I was not trying to imply that stroking a stock crank is cheaper.
Higher compression and temperatures (strokers and big bores) can cause premature warping of the cylinder head. Upon cooling to room temperature, the head and cylinder contract which can cause a leak at the head gasket the next time you start your cold engine. Most times (for the warrior) just tightening the head bolts can fix the problem. So yes indeed a head gasket can leak (seen it many times). Not that it’s the end of the world…just a pain in the ass when you just want to load the quad and get riding with your buddies.
For the warrior,+ 4mm and most definitely +7mm stroking is what I would call extreme. Every man has his own definition. I guess extreme to some would be so large that it requires increasing the deck height and getting an extended cam chain. For the “stock” warrior head and cylinder I think +7mm is extreme. I also understand that many have reliable bored and stroked motors but I think most have issues…especially if the individual does not maintain it….clearances etc. I also believe most use an oil cooler…..why not use one with $1000 invested already?
The easiest/simplest way to increase power on your warrior is and Edelbrock Carb. It is very expensive but easier than (for the amateur) installing a cam, springs, checking clearances, and timing etc. Although a performance cam is awesome you really need to be honest with yourself on what type of riding you do. Don’t buy a race cam if you’re always in the low to mid range. With the edelbrock it doesn’t matter because it’s always crisp with enhanced power throughout the entire range. Therefore, I think an Edelbrock is the best mod you can do.
If you don't maintain a stock engine it will turn into a turd as well or on anything else that you own, it just that when you modify something usually requires more. There is no free lunch here.
FST, CWR, Powroll all make kits that don't require a base plate and stroke up to 10.5mm, I would call these kits very well put together and quality. I would say anything that requires you to take some material off the cases (windage tray) is extreme, but if you want power and nothing else will do these are the ones to go to. HotRods is not in my opinion extreme. Basically just taking the bore out to factory spec 84mm and stroking it so you don't have do any work to the cases. Now you have FST, Powroll, CWR all saying that you can go to 85mm bore and you will have no problem as there is still enough material left in the stock sleeve to be reliable. You can choose who you want to believe. I can tell you that I have 1500 miles on my rebuild and still has 195 psi cranking compression cold and less then 5 percent leak down after 3 years of hard riding.
You can spend $400 dollars on a brock that will give you maybe a 1hp increase or rebuild the top-end with HP cam and piston and you will see more like a 3-6hp gain in the same price. On a good stroker kit 15+hp gain. There are much cheaper options for a carb that will perform on par or better then the edel.
The cylinder head if flat and within spec using a good head gasket will never leak if properly installed and torqued no matter if you are running a CWR 12:1 89mm piston a stock setup.
I wouldn't worry about the warrior strokers having as much trouble, I'd worry about the newer machines after getting a stroker kit installed. These days they seem to make the parts only as beefy as they need to be. The warrior has the same basic 80's design, everything is beefier and heavier than it needs to be. I mean jesus, they built a 500 stroker that was very reliable on it back then, even running the stock clutch. Look at a yfz450, they are over 50 pounds lighter, they had to make something cheapy chinese style on it. They are made with quite a bit of aluminum, but there has to be some cutbacks on the motor too though, there has to be, that's a majority of the machines weight right there.
I have a '98 Warrior with a big bore kit that pushes it up to 396cc with a 16:1 piston, FMF pipe and silencer, and a Hotcam. I recently was at the dunes when the motor died. My buddy was riding, and said that it died, so he started it and it went 2 feet and died again. I could hear some rattle noise when I hit the start button. When I pulled it apart, the main bearing between the crank and rod is completly gone. I had been hearing some whining noise the days prior, but chalked it up to me psyching myself out thinking that I was hearing things. Does this sound to any of you like the bearing spun when I heard the whining noise and then got too hot and puked the bearing out?
Also, I'm looking into the Hotrods cranks on ebay, and I can find a new one still in the packaging for $250 shipped. That's almost $100 cheaper than in the catalogs. I'm not interested in the stroker, because that means I have to buy a new piston, that's like $250 on top of the crank. Not really worth it to me. Am I going on the right path to buy a new stock Hotrods crank? Also, does anyone know of a better deal than the ones on ebay?
Thanks guys. I love this website.
Also, I'm looking into the Hotrods cranks on ebay, and I can find a new one still in the packaging for $250 shipped. That's almost $100 cheaper than in the catalogs. I'm not interested in the stroker, because that means I have to buy a new piston, that's like $250 on top of the crank. Not really worth it to me. Am I going on the right path to buy a new stock Hotrods crank? Also, does anyone know of a better deal than the ones on ebay?
Thanks guys. I love this website.
dswwarrior350
Well-Known Member
16:1 compression? It cannot be done on the warrior.
I would just buy a new crank. Buying used is gonna save you money... but its exactly that.... used.
I would just buy a new crank. Buying used is gonna save you money... but its exactly that.... used.
You can have your crank rebuilt plus labor for less than $200 but you will have to wait about 2weeks turn around before you can install it. For the extra $50 to buy a new hotrods and install it in the same week makes a new crank worth every penny! It's a good deal; buy it. Check all your bearings and change them if needed while you have the case opened.
