ball joint removal?

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yamarider

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Ok, i've been debating for a while whether I want to get extended a-arms or not. But while i'm trying to decide i was wondering, how have you guys removed your ball joints from the spindles? I've seen a tool before somewhere that pressed them out from the inside, and was wondering if that was really necessary, or if I could get away with using a metal dowel and a hammer to punch them out.
 
dont hit the ball joint, but hit the spindle itself where it holds the ball joint with a hammer... it will come out
 
i use a punch and put it on the threads with the nut on the bolt flush and tap it with a hammer it always comes loose
 
Be VERY careful hammering on them - its easy to mushroom the ends/**** up the threads. just take the A-Arms off and go to a shop and have them use a pickle fork (they will be off in 2 seconds).
 
Ball joint remover, less than 20 bucks at murrays or any auto store, just a couple taps and they are off. I highly recommend getting one, well worth the 10 or 20 bucks.
 
Thanks guys, I was at the powersports shop today, and they told me that they would just pop them out for free and save me the trouble. So when my new a-arms come in, i'll just take them in and let the shop take care of it.

I finally made up my mind today about a-arms when I went to the shop and got their opinion on it. I found out that the shop works with burgard, and gets some great deals from them. They should be at the shop tomorrow, for $300 for a set of +2's. The only reason they're so cheap is that they're "blemished". It would never be noticable, but the nickel plating is a very light goldish tint at the ends by the ball joints, and they weren't perfect enough to pass burgards QC because of it. Also have a set of works shocks on the way. I was going to get +3's originally, but when I took into consideration that my wheels will also be giving me another 2 inches over stock, i decided to go with the +2's and not have to worry about if it's going to fit in the truck and on the trailer.

And DeathShadow, the shifter is still working perfectly. It hasn't bent or done anything else weird other than the paint wearing off, and i'm going to get it powdercoaded along with a bunch of other stuff this winter. I'm very happy with it. Thanks.
 
Same here, paint sucks ass when it gets rubbed by metal tipped boots. Get the ball joint separator for future use though, you'll need it!!! Any time you'll want to do a adjustment to the camber or just simply replace a worn joint you'll need it. It's also nice to have on trips in case someone pretzels a tie rod. My friend rolled his z400 and had that happen before, but we just beat it back straight on a tree stump with a hammer, but if we didn't have the separator we could of been done riding for the weekend. Hammering the ball joints is a real pain in the ass, especially when you have to grind a taper on the bolts so that it'll rethread to just go back on. The longer the joints are on there the harder it is to remove them, but with the fork it takes a couple quick taps.
 

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