Yamabond on Valve Access Cover?

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Gt45

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Hi, all. New to the forum and newish to the atv world. Recently bought my teenage son a 2003 warrior and planning to give it to him for Christmas. Been hiding it at a friend's house for a few weeks and giving it a once over one bit at a time. Its fairly clean overall. I rode it a couple of miles under load for the first time before getting ready to change the oil. At the end of the ride there was smoke. Found a leak dripping down onto the exhaust. The best I can tell its coming from the intake valve access cover. I pulled it and the O ring looks fine, but a bought a new on anyway to install.

My question is whether this seal is one that could take yamabond in addition to the O ring? If so, ill do it before I put it all back together. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Yes, you can put the Yamabond on there. I believe the O-ring is meant to handle all the oil sealing, but if you don't plan to open that cover to check valves for a while, you can add the sealant.
 
Yes, you can put the Yamabond on there. I believe the O-ring is meant to handle all the oil sealing, but if you don't plan to open that cover to check valves for a while, you can add the sealant.

Thanks for the reply. I got the new ring installed there and...for good measure went to torque the screw/bolt you see to the lower right of the cover with the copper washer. Well, it sheared off and I have now extracted the remains. Now I need to know what exactly this bolt is for so I can get a replacement. Added another pic here after the breakage.
 

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It appears the screw in question is a vented or vacuum screw.
 
Thanks for the reply. I got the new ring installed there and...for good measure went to torque the screw/bolt you see to the lower right of the cover with the copper washer. Well, it sheared off and I have now extracted the remains. Now I need to know what exactly this bolt is for so I can get a replacement. Added another pic here after the breakage.
That screw is to check for oil flow while the engine is running. All you need to do is loosen it and if oil weeps out, then your oil pump is working. There isnt a lot of pressure and it shouldn't take much to torque it down. You'll want to use a reverse drill bit and hope to work the screw out, if you have to drill it out, i recommend pulling the head. You don't want metal bits to get in the oil.
 
That screw is to check for oil flow while the engine is running. All you need to do is loosen it and if oil weeps out, then your oil pump is working. There isnt a lot of pressure and it shouldn't take much to torque it down. You'll want to use a reverse drill bit and hope to work the screw out, if you have to drill it out, i recommend pulling the head. You don't want metal bits to get in the oil.

Thanks for that bit of knowledge. It took me some digging to partially understand the point of that screw but makes sense. The extractor bit worked nicely to get it out. It wasn't seized at all and reversed out nicely, thankfully. I found the part number for that screw and have one on order. Also went ahead and ordered the 250 fastener kit from Amazon. Should be here in a day or so. Hopefully can find out this weekend if she still leaks when warmed up and under load.

Will be putting the UNI filter on, replacing the starter relay (previous owner had it bypassed with a switch hanging under the plastics), fresh yamalube 4t synthetic and filter. Hoping also the fresh oil will make it easier to find neutral.
 
Don't be discouraged if a simple oil change doesn't fix the hard to find neutral issue. I did a full engine/ trans rebuild, along with cleaning and reoiling the clutch plates, and neutral is a piece of cake to find. Cleaning up the clutch plates would be a good start to find neutral easier.
 
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