yamaharaptor350
Well-Known Member
Ive heard the best replacemnet for the stock clutch is the stock clutch... what do you guys sugest I run for a new clutch ?? thanx
Time for a new clutch
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98warrior
Well-Known Member
Never replaced a clutch so I cant make any recomendations but I guarantee you a stock clutch will be pricey.
yamaharaptor350
Well-Known Member
yea thats what i was thinkin... Im prolly goin with the EBC kit
griff
Well-Known Member
Yamaha clutch plates are very good, and usually reasonably priced. Only aftermarket I would look at is Barnett, but they can be more expensive than OEM.
Hard to go wrong with either, so go by which has the best price IMHO.
98warrior
Well-Known Member
People also say to go with stiffer or "heavy duty"clutch springs as well I think.
G
Guest
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don't buy a tusk i got about 20hrs and it's thew
yamaharaptor350
Well-Known Member
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Engine&webTypeId=38&webCatId=17&vehicleType=&pageLinkUri=&prodFamilyId=4495
ebc have the heavy duty springs in the kit...
ebc have the heavy duty springs in the kit...
jasonp
Well-Known Member
I would keep one small steel and add it to the clutch pack for what ever clutch you use.
dswwarrior350
Well-Known Member
As far as the best..... id say DP clutches but your looking at about 150 bucks. Barnetts would be your best bet with an extra plate and stiffer springs.
jasonp
Well-Known Member
you can tell the barnetts have stiffer springs as well.. I think it's like 8 percent or so more then stock each spring one of the techs was telling me... doesn't sound like much but, it's a hell of a lot harder pull then stock thats for sure.. then add that extra plate in the pack then it's even more pressure as the springs are more compressed.
I can't amagin what daves feels like as I believe there even stronger springs.
I can't amagin what daves feels like as I believe there even stronger springs.
griff
Well-Known Member
If the clutch doesnt slip with OEM springs, no sense in changing them. Youre not gaining anything by going to the stiffer springs if the new clutch wasnt slipping to begin with.
The OEM springs will last a very very long time.... but some people just plain like the harder pull and hard engagement of stiffer springs. So whatever works for ya
The OEM springs will last a very very long time.... but some people just plain like the harder pull and hard engagement of stiffer springs. So whatever works for ya
jasonp
Well-Known Member
If the clutch doesn't slip with OEM springs, no sense in changing them. You're not gaining anything by going to the stiffer springs if the new clutch wasn't slipping to begin with.
The OEM springs will last a very very long time.... but some people just plain like the harder pull and hard engagement of stiffer springs. So whatever works for ya
If you have a stock engine then it would make no sense to use a higher tension spring.. On the other hand if you have your engine modified it would just make sense to add spring tension as the clutch pack wears as an assembly then you will loose spring tension on the pressure plate causing your clutch to potentially slip. Add bigger, gripper tires, more torque, and a lot of heat and you haven't done anything with the clutch well it's the weakest link...
griff
Well-Known Member
Hehe, actually on this engine, the clutch is stronger than the rest of it
The clutch system Yamaha uses in the Warrior/Raptor 350 is very stout compared to the rest of the engine... its a fringe benefit of the basic design being (previously) used for other (higher HP) Yamaha engines. In reality, its way overkill.
It doesnt make sense to goto a higher tension spring even with a built engine - i.e. If its not slipping, its not slipping. Even a built stroker of this engine doesnt put down enough HP to phase an OEM clutch.
That stock clutch system is easily good for 100HP to the wheels.
If it starts slipping, then definitely go to a HD spring setup, but I'd try it with OEM 1st. Its not like its hard to swap out
dave76
Well-Known Member
Well Mickey Dunlap of FST said use the stock plates, he used them on his Warrior 500 with an extra plate and stiffer springs.
griff
Well-Known Member
If the clutch plates were all new, then thats pretty damn strange (just in general).
If the clutch was already a bit worn, then an extra plate to bring the stack-height back to normal isnt unusual at all. Stiffer springs wouldnt have necessarily been needed, but may have been a preference, or done just as a preemptive measure for such a crazy mod'd engine (nothing like a little insurance when somethings that built
).But with all the work and mods he did to the engine, there may be other reasons that we dont know about as well.
jasonp
Well-Known Member
Hehe, actually on this engine, the clutch is stronger than the rest of it
The clutch system Yamaha uses in the Warrior/Raptor 350 is very stout compared to the rest of the engine... its a fringe benefit of the basic design being (previously) used for other (higher HP) Yamaha engines. In reality, its way overkill.
It doesnt make sense to goto a higher tension spring even with a built engine - i.e. If its not slipping, its not slipping. Even a built stroker of this engine doesnt put down enough HP to phase an OEM clutch.
That stock clutch system is easily good for 100HP to the wheels.
If it starts slipping, then definitely go to a HD spring setup, but I'd try it with OEM 1st. Its not like its hard to swap out
[/quote:qw4kitrq]There is no way I would say the stock setup is good for a 100 hp. I don't know where you get that info as when I was trying to get pull started after I got my high compression piston in I had the bike in 6th gear with the clutch out my tires would rotate very slowly and the bike would barley turn over going 30 mph. The clutch was slipping and even when I was riding at mid rpm points the clutch would slip with HD springs. I took my clutch all apart again check the depth made sure the pressure plate wasn't bottoming out and then checked the steels and frictions again. Nothing looking warped or worn. Even the steels still had the cross patterns in them. I added a steel and that added more tension to the pack and I haven't had a problem since.
jasonp
Well-Known Member
I find it interesting that mickey sells his 366 kit with stiffer springs and then his 446 with super HD springs.. that should tell you something right there that he has tested it. It's really not like he's just going to try and sell you something that you don't need.
griff
Well-Known Member
Its from direct experience my friend....
You misunderstand Jason... I'm only refering to the overall strength of the basket, shaft, i.e. the whole assembly. If you had to config the plates (or spring) differently for your application, thats entirely reasonable to me. I do find it slightly odd that it was necessary with your config, I've seen some pretty built Warriors running more radical setups using a totally stock clutch without issue. But I've had weirder stuff happen before myself, so I'm not surprised either
That tranny and by extension the clutch assembly design was used on another 500cc Yamaha engine for a motorcycle back in the day. Most of the parts were interchangeable, and those engines made 80hp without too much engine work. All ran stock clutches.
Now I'll submit its possible that they used a different compression spring, but all the plates were a straight swap.
Now back to what I originally said.....
All I'm saying is, if guys are gonna do the clutch, try the OEM spring 1st... if it doesnt slip, then a HD spring isnt necessary. If it slips, then by all means get a HD spring - theyre easy enough to swap out.
As always, YMMV
jasonp
Well-Known Member
1973-74 SC500
301-90-10025(8) frictions
401-90-063015(7) steels
501-35-06040 springs
1987-04 YFM350X Warrior
301-90-10025(5) frictions
301-90-10825(2) frictions
401-90-063015(4) steels
401-90-078015(2) steels
501-58-05045 springs
this info is from barnetts web site and as you can see it's the closest thing I could come up with as far as matching 500 to a warrior. You can see that there is one more friction and one more steel with different spring set. You can also see that yamaha did use the clutch parts off there warrior for many other models but as you still see they would use more or less clutch plates for how much torque the engine will be producing. I talked to Pam from Powroll and we talked about there stroker kit and how the stock springs on the clutch are the only thing that they replace when doing the kit and there included. She wouldn't tell me what spring they actually come out of other then there custom.
301-90-10025(8) frictions
401-90-063015(7) steels
501-35-06040 springs
1987-04 YFM350X Warrior
301-90-10025(5) frictions
301-90-10825(2) frictions
401-90-063015(4) steels
401-90-078015(2) steels
501-58-05045 springs
this info is from barnetts web site and as you can see it's the closest thing I could come up with as far as matching 500 to a warrior. You can see that there is one more friction and one more steel with different spring set. You can also see that yamaha did use the clutch parts off there warrior for many other models but as you still see they would use more or less clutch plates for how much torque the engine will be producing. I talked to Pam from Powroll and we talked about there stroker kit and how the stock springs on the clutch are the only thing that they replace when doing the kit and there included. She wouldn't tell me what spring they actually come out of other then there custom.
griff
Well-Known Member
Interesting for sure, good info Jason. Though I'm not sure it was a SC500... it might have been an SR500, but its been a while. There were definitely several mild iterations of that clutch assembly design.
I do remember explicitly though, the clutch in question had the exact same amount of plates as the warrior in all regards. At the time, we were doing a lookup and noticed that some of the xref stuff had a pattern of individual part#'s, but the "sets" they sold at the time had unique #'s thats didnt specify what part#'s it contained. We just did the xref'ing and found out the Warrior plate set was exactly the same, and $20 cheaper... lol. It worked great.
So Powroll only replaces the spring, but doesnt add (or change) plates?
Thats definitely more consistent with my experience as far as the clutch assembly (plates and all) and power-handling ability.
As I said before, I submit that they may have used a stiffer spring for the 500 assembly, but otherwise the plates themselves will handle the power just fine, and did (as a general rule).
Part of the problem in keeping track of all this stuff, is all the variations that manufacturer can have for essentially the same parts. I cant even imagine how many times various clutch plates have been superseded over the years.
I do remember explicitly though, the clutch in question had the exact same amount of plates as the warrior in all regards. At the time, we were doing a lookup and noticed that some of the xref stuff had a pattern of individual part#'s, but the "sets" they sold at the time had unique #'s thats didnt specify what part#'s it contained. We just did the xref'ing and found out the Warrior plate set was exactly the same, and $20 cheaper... lol. It worked great.
So Powroll only replaces the spring, but doesnt add (or change) plates?
Thats definitely more consistent with my experience as far as the clutch assembly (plates and all) and power-handling ability.
As I said before, I submit that they may have used a stiffer spring for the 500 assembly, but otherwise the plates themselves will handle the power just fine, and did (as a general rule).
Part of the problem in keeping track of all this stuff, is all the variations that manufacturer can have for essentially the same parts. I cant even imagine how many times various clutch plates have been superseded over the years.
