OK, now that I'm logged into place with my own account....
Unfortunately theres A LOT of misinformation perpetuated by mc dealers and the manufacturers of mc specific oil. They have a vested interest in telling people that, its a way for them to make money. Theres HUGE profit margins in mc specific oil and absolutely ZERO benefit for the end-user.
When it comes down to it, most motorcycle oil is just and SG rated oil, there is nothing special about. They cannot, by law, make any significant changes to the formula, all additives and base chemical components are strictly regulated by federal law.
There is NO magic-bullet ingredient or formulation for mc oils (and thats exactly what they are trying to make you believe there is).
A worn clutch, be it minor or major, will reveal itself when using EC and/or Synthetics, its that simple. Unless you pull the fiber plates, mic them, know what the range is, and know for certain what theyre supposed to look like, youre not gonna know. Everyone clutches differently, some people get 60K miles out of a clutch, some get 10-15K at most.
Guys, I've built many high HP applications in my day, and I've been through the mc oil thing quite a few times. If youre getting slippage, you need to take into account a few things:
1. Clutch wear, hours and miles wont tell you, you gotta pull the plates.
2. How long have the current clutch plates been in 'regular' oil before switching to a auto oil (synth and/or ec)?
3. Is the clutch spring(s) good?
Every situation is going to be a little different, you cant generalize by comparing 1 persons ride & habits to anothers.
For example, some Bandit 1200 guys run auto Mobil1 5w30 or 10w30 (bear in mind, 10w40 SG is considered standard for this bike) after their 1st oil change, and put on A LOT of miles, in a couple cases almost 100K mile on the original OEM clutch!.
Now some others will make the switch say at 15K miles from dino oil to a synthetic, and they get slippage! Mic'd the fiber platers, and theyre basically within spec. The clutch plates have been soaked and saturated with the old stuff, that has a polishing effect on all the plates. Introduce a more slippery medium (synthetic oil), and you get a cohesion problem.
Solution? They add 1 Barnett HD clutch spring (theres 4 springs in this clutch assembly), problem solved, no more slippage, and the plates begin to bed-in again with the synth oil.
Theres always a simple logical approach to this stuff, and marketing info has to be ignored to great degree - companies tend to lie to sell products
If you like to read some interesting stuff on MC vs. Auto oils, there a very good article/test (its a little older, but he info is valid to this day):
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
In the end, just buy whatever makes you happy and works for you, its your money after all
