TOOLS NEEDED TO INSTALL CLUTCH KIT
- SET OF METRIC SOCKETS UP TO 27 MM
- PHILLIPS AND FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVERS
- 1 13/16 SOCKET OR WRENCH
- TORQUE WRENCH
- SPRING TOOL OR NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
- CLUTCH COMPRESSION TOOL
- 1/2 IMPACT WRENCH
- 2-3 QUARTS OF YAMAHA MOTOR OIL
-A vise is helpful when pressing back in the bushings.
-You need allen wrenches to take off the steps.
-You need a 3/4 or 1" impact to take off the nut for the large spring. A
wrench is not enough.
-3/8 AIR RATCHET FOR SOME OF THE SMALLER WORK
GASKETS NEEDED TO INSTALL CLUTCH KIT
-ORDER GASKETS FROM YOUR LOCAL DEALER BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE CLUTCH.
- INTERNAL CLUTCH HOUSING GASKET - PART # 5GH-15463-00-00
YAMAHA CALLS THIS A CARB GASKET.
STEP
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Remove the seat, the small body piece between the seat and clutch cover, and the right side foot rest. Note the length of the bolts and their position when removed. Remove the plastic clutch cover being careful not to damage the gasket.
2. Once the clutch cover has been removed take the aluminum clutch guard off. Now you should be able to see the complete primary clutch. The clutch is filled with grease and must stay that way. Do not remove any grease unless it is on the outside of the clutch, on the inner clutch sheaves where the belt rides or on the belt. If any grease is on these areas it will cause belt slippage. Clean these areas with contact or brake cleaner that doesn?t leave an oily film.
3. Remove the large nut (normally 22mm) that holds the primary clutch on. Once the nut has been removed pull the clutch off the machine. Remove the thin cover plate and rubber o-ring. Carefully slide the inside plate up and out of the clutch. Do not clean off any grease unless necessary. This should reveal eight clutch rollers.
4. Remove one roller and press the inside bushing out of it. You can usually use a 18mm/19mm or a 11/16 socket and push the bushing out by hand. If needed set the roller on a 26mm or a
1 1/16 socket, set the smaller socket on the inner bushing and lightly tap with a hammer to remove the inner bushing. The bushing can only be pushed in one direction, make sure you are pushing it out the right way or damage can occur. Press in the new bushing supplied in the kit and place the roller back in the clutch. Repeat this step for the remaining rollers. Make sure you have all eight of the rollers in the proper place and position. Install the inside plate making sure all the rollers are in the proper location. Put the rubber o-ring and the thin cover plate back on the clutch. Place clutch out of the way and start working on the secondary clutch.
5. Remove the large nut (22mm) and washer that holds the secondary clutch on. Remove the clutch and the belt from the machine. Using a 1 13/16" socket or a large wrench loosen the large nut holding down the secondary spring retainer. ONLY TURN NUT ? Turn, DO NOT TOTALLY REMOVE NUT. The nut and retainer are under extreme pressure and can cause damage or injury if not removed properly. Using a compression tool (EPI part # CCT500) carefully compress the spring enough to take the pressure off the nut. Remove the nut and slowly release the pressure off the spring. Remove the spring.
6. Place the EPI spring and spring retainer in the clutch. Using the compression tool or a press slowly and carefully compress the spring until you can thread the nut onto the shaft. Once the nut has been threaded on the shaft you can remove it from the press and torque nut to 72 ft/lbs. Set clutch aside.
7. Remove the rest of the primary clutch off of the machine. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; If you can carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. After oil is drained remove te bolts that hold aluminum housing that contains the internal clutch. This is the housing that has the shaft sticking out of it that the primary clutch sits on. Slowly remove the housing, try not to damage the gasket. If gasket is damaged you will need to install a new one. Some oil may leak from the housing when first removed, this is normal.
8. Remove the bearing. Remove the nut (27mm), some nuts are peened flat and must be straightened before they can be removed. Slide the clutch basket off; keep track of which side faces out. Place clutch on a clean work area. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or pliers. Push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off remove the three round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see and change the complete spring. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the three metal plates and the e-clips. Slide the clutch basket back onto the machine. Install the nut and torque it to 115 ft/lbs, if it was peened over be sure to re-peen it back to lock it into position. Put the bearing on making sure the arrow is facing towards the front of the machine, install the gasket and the aluminum housing. Torque the housing bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs.
9. Bolt on the clutch housing and any other brackets that were removed. PusH the back half of the primary clutch back onto the shaft. Put the secondary clutch on, make sure it slides on all the way and torque the nut to 72 ft/lbs. Thread the bolt included in this kit into one of the threaded holes on the side of the secondary clutch. This should spread the clutch sheaves apart. Put the belt in the clutch, there is normally an arrow on the belt that should face towards the front of the machine.
10. Grab the primary clutch, push the inner part down with your thumbs and hold down as you pick up the clutch. While holding the inner part of the clutch from moving, slide the primary clutch onto the shaft. This should keep the rollers in place. Keep it pushed in until you can install the nut and washer. The clutch should slide all the way back easily. If the clutch doesn?t seem to go on far enough to tighten the nut properly (it should slide all the way on to the edge of the splines) you might have a roller out of place or the belt might be blocking it. If needed, move the belt up and down to see if the clutch will slide on farther. If the rollers seem out of place take the clutch apart and check roller location. Install the large nut and torque it to 85 ft/lbs. Remove the bolt that was threaded into the secondary clutch.
11. Assemble the aluminum clutch guard and carefully install the plastic clutch cover and gasket to ensure a good seal. Put the foot rest, small plastic body piece, and then the seat back on.
12. Install oil drain plug. Refill your engine oil to the proper level according to your owners manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. You must use NON Friction Modified oil (stock Yamaha). DO NOT USE oils with Friction Reducing Agents, this WILL CAUSE SLIPPAGE AND DAMAGE.
13. Go out and ride your machine. If the performance doesn?t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly.
NOTICE:
When using a snorkel kit, it is imperative that you maintain adequate ventilation for your clutches. Reduction of diameter, lengthening, incorporating multiple bends or modifying the vent tube will result in increased heat buildup in the clutch housing and damage may occur. EPI is not responsible for any damage caused by snorkeling.
Hints:
You can get the compressor to compress the one spring(if you are just going to do one it doesnt make sense)
I took mine to the local dealer and they are going to charge me like $10 or $15 to swap out the one spring.
The rest of the install is relativly painless up to this point except the 5 small springs, they can be tough to strech on to the clutch pieces.
- SET OF METRIC SOCKETS UP TO 27 MM
- PHILLIPS AND FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVERS
- 1 13/16 SOCKET OR WRENCH
- TORQUE WRENCH
- SPRING TOOL OR NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
- CLUTCH COMPRESSION TOOL
- 1/2 IMPACT WRENCH
- 2-3 QUARTS OF YAMAHA MOTOR OIL
-A vise is helpful when pressing back in the bushings.
-You need allen wrenches to take off the steps.
-You need a 3/4 or 1" impact to take off the nut for the large spring. A
wrench is not enough.
-3/8 AIR RATCHET FOR SOME OF THE SMALLER WORK
GASKETS NEEDED TO INSTALL CLUTCH KIT
-ORDER GASKETS FROM YOUR LOCAL DEALER BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE CLUTCH.
- INTERNAL CLUTCH HOUSING GASKET - PART # 5GH-15463-00-00
YAMAHA CALLS THIS A CARB GASKET.
STEP
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Remove the seat, the small body piece between the seat and clutch cover, and the right side foot rest. Note the length of the bolts and their position when removed. Remove the plastic clutch cover being careful not to damage the gasket.
2. Once the clutch cover has been removed take the aluminum clutch guard off. Now you should be able to see the complete primary clutch. The clutch is filled with grease and must stay that way. Do not remove any grease unless it is on the outside of the clutch, on the inner clutch sheaves where the belt rides or on the belt. If any grease is on these areas it will cause belt slippage. Clean these areas with contact or brake cleaner that doesn?t leave an oily film.
3. Remove the large nut (normally 22mm) that holds the primary clutch on. Once the nut has been removed pull the clutch off the machine. Remove the thin cover plate and rubber o-ring. Carefully slide the inside plate up and out of the clutch. Do not clean off any grease unless necessary. This should reveal eight clutch rollers.
4. Remove one roller and press the inside bushing out of it. You can usually use a 18mm/19mm or a 11/16 socket and push the bushing out by hand. If needed set the roller on a 26mm or a
1 1/16 socket, set the smaller socket on the inner bushing and lightly tap with a hammer to remove the inner bushing. The bushing can only be pushed in one direction, make sure you are pushing it out the right way or damage can occur. Press in the new bushing supplied in the kit and place the roller back in the clutch. Repeat this step for the remaining rollers. Make sure you have all eight of the rollers in the proper place and position. Install the inside plate making sure all the rollers are in the proper location. Put the rubber o-ring and the thin cover plate back on the clutch. Place clutch out of the way and start working on the secondary clutch.
5. Remove the large nut (22mm) and washer that holds the secondary clutch on. Remove the clutch and the belt from the machine. Using a 1 13/16" socket or a large wrench loosen the large nut holding down the secondary spring retainer. ONLY TURN NUT ? Turn, DO NOT TOTALLY REMOVE NUT. The nut and retainer are under extreme pressure and can cause damage or injury if not removed properly. Using a compression tool (EPI part # CCT500) carefully compress the spring enough to take the pressure off the nut. Remove the nut and slowly release the pressure off the spring. Remove the spring.
6. Place the EPI spring and spring retainer in the clutch. Using the compression tool or a press slowly and carefully compress the spring until you can thread the nut onto the shaft. Once the nut has been threaded on the shaft you can remove it from the press and torque nut to 72 ft/lbs. Set clutch aside.
7. Remove the rest of the primary clutch off of the machine. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; If you can carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. After oil is drained remove te bolts that hold aluminum housing that contains the internal clutch. This is the housing that has the shaft sticking out of it that the primary clutch sits on. Slowly remove the housing, try not to damage the gasket. If gasket is damaged you will need to install a new one. Some oil may leak from the housing when first removed, this is normal.
8. Remove the bearing. Remove the nut (27mm), some nuts are peened flat and must be straightened before they can be removed. Slide the clutch basket off; keep track of which side faces out. Place clutch on a clean work area. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or pliers. Push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off remove the three round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see and change the complete spring. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the three metal plates and the e-clips. Slide the clutch basket back onto the machine. Install the nut and torque it to 115 ft/lbs, if it was peened over be sure to re-peen it back to lock it into position. Put the bearing on making sure the arrow is facing towards the front of the machine, install the gasket and the aluminum housing. Torque the housing bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs.
9. Bolt on the clutch housing and any other brackets that were removed. PusH the back half of the primary clutch back onto the shaft. Put the secondary clutch on, make sure it slides on all the way and torque the nut to 72 ft/lbs. Thread the bolt included in this kit into one of the threaded holes on the side of the secondary clutch. This should spread the clutch sheaves apart. Put the belt in the clutch, there is normally an arrow on the belt that should face towards the front of the machine.
10. Grab the primary clutch, push the inner part down with your thumbs and hold down as you pick up the clutch. While holding the inner part of the clutch from moving, slide the primary clutch onto the shaft. This should keep the rollers in place. Keep it pushed in until you can install the nut and washer. The clutch should slide all the way back easily. If the clutch doesn?t seem to go on far enough to tighten the nut properly (it should slide all the way on to the edge of the splines) you might have a roller out of place or the belt might be blocking it. If needed, move the belt up and down to see if the clutch will slide on farther. If the rollers seem out of place take the clutch apart and check roller location. Install the large nut and torque it to 85 ft/lbs. Remove the bolt that was threaded into the secondary clutch.
11. Assemble the aluminum clutch guard and carefully install the plastic clutch cover and gasket to ensure a good seal. Put the foot rest, small plastic body piece, and then the seat back on.
12. Install oil drain plug. Refill your engine oil to the proper level according to your owners manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. You must use NON Friction Modified oil (stock Yamaha). DO NOT USE oils with Friction Reducing Agents, this WILL CAUSE SLIPPAGE AND DAMAGE.
13. Go out and ride your machine. If the performance doesn?t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly.
NOTICE:
When using a snorkel kit, it is imperative that you maintain adequate ventilation for your clutches. Reduction of diameter, lengthening, incorporating multiple bends or modifying the vent tube will result in increased heat buildup in the clutch housing and damage may occur. EPI is not responsible for any damage caused by snorkeling.
Hints:
You can get the compressor to compress the one spring(if you are just going to do one it doesnt make sense)
I took mine to the local dealer and they are going to charge me like $10 or $15 to swap out the one spring.
The rest of the install is relativly painless up to this point except the 5 small springs, they can be tough to strech on to the clutch pieces.
