DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
When your axle bearings are getting ready to take a **** you should replace them ASAP; if the bearings finally got so worn that they fell apart while riding you wouldn’t be to happy on the trail/and could possible get severely hurt. Also if you wait to the last second the bearings are a real BITCH to get out so it’s best to do it as soon as you can. This is no 15min. job and it does take some patience but it's worth doing on your own (most dealers will charge $120.00 + in labor to do it). Also if you want to tap/install a grease fitting on your carrier or put in a new axle NOW is the time to do it.
Tools/Items needed:
1. A short 4x4 piece of wood
2. A handheld but decent sledge hammer
3. Sockets & Wrench
4. Some steel wool
5. Anti-Seize, High Temp Grease, & some penetrating lube/oil
6. New Axle Bearings & Seals
7. A pretty large wrench to remove the large axle nuts (borrow one)
8. New cotter pins to replace the old one (cheap at Lowe’s or dealer)
9. Some **** to tap the bearings out and in (read below Step 8 & 9)
10. A friend, some food, beer, music, and patience
Step 1: First you want to remove the BIG NUTS on the left side of the axle holding it in place. You will need a pretty big adjustable/pipe wrench for this so if you don’t have one borrow one they can be expensive (or buy one and return it). Remove the large axle nut on the outside first by pulling up on the wrench. Then when you have removed the first one go ahead and remove the second one the same way; you may need someone to sit on the quad and hold the breaks while doing this to keep the quad from moving forward.
Step 2: You have now got the axle nuts off you must remove both wheels and remove the LEFT side hub (the one on the side of the axle nuts). To remove the hub just bend and remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut with a socket wrench then yank it off. The hub will probably be corroded onto the axle it is a good idea to clean the splines and put some anti-seize on it when you put it back together.
Step 3: You now have the quad propped up and the wheels and left hub removed - it is now time to remove the master link on the drive chain. With the quad in neutral rotate the chain around until you find the master link clip. When you find the master link clip remove it with a flat head screw driver/tapping it out and remove the master link as well by pulling it out with your hands or pliers. *Note: be sure not to lose any O-Rings, the master link clip, etc...* You now should pull your chain off and set it aside (clean it & lube it as well etc...).
Step 4: It is now time to remove the rear break caliper from the rotor. There are two 14mm bolts holding it in place (one on the top and one on the bottom) use a 14mm socket or wrench to remove them. When you have removed the bolts *PULL UP* on the caliper lifting it up off the rotor and lay it to the side (letting it hang there) out of the way.
Step 5: With the axle nuts, wheels, left hub, chain, and break caliper removed it is now time to remove the sprocket and its carrier/hub. Just grab the sprocket and pull it off to the left (towards the direction of the removed hub); if it gives you **** give it a good wiggle while pulling it and it should budge.
Step 6: HAVING FUN YET!? Well now it's time for the fun to really start! Start shooting the crevices of the axle carrier with penetrating lube to help this process along. Put the left side castle nut/wheel hub nut (what ever you want to call it) back onto the left side of the axle, get your 4x4 and put it up against it. Use a small hand held sledge hammer (one with some decent weight to it) and start banging the axle out (it comes out to the right so its a good idea while your banging on it have someone sit down, put there feet on the quad and pull the axle/hold the quad in place at the same time) by hitting the 4x4 against the castle nut with the sledge. This may take some time but you MUST NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE YOU WILL DAMAGE THE AXLE. Hit the wood against the castle nut hard and firm but don’t slam it. Watch the threads and the end of the axle near where you are hitting - if you see any signs of damage STOP and use less force.
Step 7: When you bang the axle out most of the way by hammer just pull it out. It is a good idea to use steel wool to clean the rust/corrosion off the splines (don’t damage them).
Step 8: Well now that you have the axle out its time to remove the BEARINGS from the carrier. Use a 6" socket extension, long piece of wood or metal, or something to TAP the bearings out. Just spray them with penetrating lube and tap them out with a hammer and w/e. There is also a steel collar inside the carrier; it is a good idea to clean this and the carrier itself real well with steel wool or a steel wire brush.
Step 9: Now that your carrier has been cleaned and the steel collar is back inside you can tap the new bearings back in. It is a good idea to fill the carrier full of grease (lots of it muah hahaha) but not so much that its gushing out the sides lol. Use a block of wood that fits over THE ENTIRE BEARING - DO NOT HIT IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BEARING YOU WILL DAMAGE IT. Tap the bearing in EVENLY ALL THE WAY IN until it stops, do the same for the other side and push in the new seals.
Step 10: Well you can now slide your axle ALL THE WAY back in (be careful not to damage the bearings or seals), put your sprocket and sprocket carrier back on, and put the large axle nuts back on. When you put your large axle nuts back on tighten the first one all the way against the sprocket carrier and wiggle the axle to make sure there is NO PLAY. Then once there is no play and this nut is nice and tight you can proceed to put the second axle nut on behind it. After you have done this you can now put your chain, hub (make sure you put on the new cotter pin and the old castle nut), wheels, and break caliper back on and your ready to go.
It may seem like a lot but you can do it; it will take about 2 hours Id say moving slowly and carefully.
- Death
Tools/Items needed:
1. A short 4x4 piece of wood
2. A handheld but decent sledge hammer
3. Sockets & Wrench
4. Some steel wool
5. Anti-Seize, High Temp Grease, & some penetrating lube/oil
6. New Axle Bearings & Seals
7. A pretty large wrench to remove the large axle nuts (borrow one)
8. New cotter pins to replace the old one (cheap at Lowe’s or dealer)
9. Some **** to tap the bearings out and in (read below Step 8 & 9)
10. A friend, some food, beer, music, and patience
Step 1: First you want to remove the BIG NUTS on the left side of the axle holding it in place. You will need a pretty big adjustable/pipe wrench for this so if you don’t have one borrow one they can be expensive (or buy one and return it). Remove the large axle nut on the outside first by pulling up on the wrench. Then when you have removed the first one go ahead and remove the second one the same way; you may need someone to sit on the quad and hold the breaks while doing this to keep the quad from moving forward.
Step 2: You have now got the axle nuts off you must remove both wheels and remove the LEFT side hub (the one on the side of the axle nuts). To remove the hub just bend and remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut with a socket wrench then yank it off. The hub will probably be corroded onto the axle it is a good idea to clean the splines and put some anti-seize on it when you put it back together.
Step 3: You now have the quad propped up and the wheels and left hub removed - it is now time to remove the master link on the drive chain. With the quad in neutral rotate the chain around until you find the master link clip. When you find the master link clip remove it with a flat head screw driver/tapping it out and remove the master link as well by pulling it out with your hands or pliers. *Note: be sure not to lose any O-Rings, the master link clip, etc...* You now should pull your chain off and set it aside (clean it & lube it as well etc...).
Step 4: It is now time to remove the rear break caliper from the rotor. There are two 14mm bolts holding it in place (one on the top and one on the bottom) use a 14mm socket or wrench to remove them. When you have removed the bolts *PULL UP* on the caliper lifting it up off the rotor and lay it to the side (letting it hang there) out of the way.
Step 5: With the axle nuts, wheels, left hub, chain, and break caliper removed it is now time to remove the sprocket and its carrier/hub. Just grab the sprocket and pull it off to the left (towards the direction of the removed hub); if it gives you **** give it a good wiggle while pulling it and it should budge.
Step 6: HAVING FUN YET!? Well now it's time for the fun to really start! Start shooting the crevices of the axle carrier with penetrating lube to help this process along. Put the left side castle nut/wheel hub nut (what ever you want to call it) back onto the left side of the axle, get your 4x4 and put it up against it. Use a small hand held sledge hammer (one with some decent weight to it) and start banging the axle out (it comes out to the right so its a good idea while your banging on it have someone sit down, put there feet on the quad and pull the axle/hold the quad in place at the same time) by hitting the 4x4 against the castle nut with the sledge. This may take some time but you MUST NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE YOU WILL DAMAGE THE AXLE. Hit the wood against the castle nut hard and firm but don’t slam it. Watch the threads and the end of the axle near where you are hitting - if you see any signs of damage STOP and use less force.
Step 7: When you bang the axle out most of the way by hammer just pull it out. It is a good idea to use steel wool to clean the rust/corrosion off the splines (don’t damage them).
Step 8: Well now that you have the axle out its time to remove the BEARINGS from the carrier. Use a 6" socket extension, long piece of wood or metal, or something to TAP the bearings out. Just spray them with penetrating lube and tap them out with a hammer and w/e. There is also a steel collar inside the carrier; it is a good idea to clean this and the carrier itself real well with steel wool or a steel wire brush.
Step 9: Now that your carrier has been cleaned and the steel collar is back inside you can tap the new bearings back in. It is a good idea to fill the carrier full of grease (lots of it muah hahaha) but not so much that its gushing out the sides lol. Use a block of wood that fits over THE ENTIRE BEARING - DO NOT HIT IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BEARING YOU WILL DAMAGE IT. Tap the bearing in EVENLY ALL THE WAY IN until it stops, do the same for the other side and push in the new seals.
Step 10: Well you can now slide your axle ALL THE WAY back in (be careful not to damage the bearings or seals), put your sprocket and sprocket carrier back on, and put the large axle nuts back on. When you put your large axle nuts back on tighten the first one all the way against the sprocket carrier and wiggle the axle to make sure there is NO PLAY. Then once there is no play and this nut is nice and tight you can proceed to put the second axle nut on behind it. After you have done this you can now put your chain, hub (make sure you put on the new cotter pin and the old castle nut), wheels, and break caliper back on and your ready to go.
It may seem like a lot but you can do it; it will take about 2 hours Id say moving slowly and carefully.
- Death