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Old 07-27-2009, 10:11 PM   #1
yamarider
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

This question gets asked a lot, so here's an official sticky on it. Feel free to add if you have additional information on this. Generally this information will apply to all years of the Warrior and Raptor 350.

DISCLAIMER:

This is what I have learned through the years, it is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate and I will take no personal responsibility for any inaccuracies, or bodily harm or property damage caused from the use or misuse of this information. Now to the information...


FRONT SHOCKS:
Stock banshee shocks (all years) will work. They are softer than stock warrior shocks, and are progressive sprung shocks so they ride smoother than stock warrior shocks so they're good for trail riding. They will roll more in the corners though, and are not recommended for jumping more than a couple feet. Stockers are not adjustable except 5 positions for the preload. Aftermarket Banshee fronts will work well, of course they will need to be valved and sprung accordingly like any aftermarket shock or they will perform shitty.

Stock Raptor 350 shocks can be considered an upgrade to warriors, especially if you have an older one with worn out shocks. Not a huge improvement, but a little better all-around vs warrior shocks. Still no adjustability except 5 notches for preload.

Stock YFZ, Raptor 660, Raptor 700, 450R shocks, and all other newer, longer shocks CAN be made to fit, but this is strongly discouraged. The longer length forces the suspenion into angles greater than they were intended, and can easily cause components to catastrophically fail. This has been proven several times by members who thought it would be fine, then the ball joints gave out. You can bet that when they do fail, it's going to hurt like a bitch because it's going to be during a jump or pounding some whoops, where the supension is really getting worked. The upper shock mounts on the frame can be raised or modified to make more room for the shocks so this isn't as big of an issue, but don't try this unless you know what you're doing.

The best performing front shocks are going to be aftermarket ones for your machine, set up for your particular application. They are available from Superior Suspension (SS), Works, Elka, PEP, Ohlins, Fox, Pro Axis, Race Tech, Total Control Suspension (TCS), and others. You get what you pay for here. SS and Works are an improvement over stock, but you'll get better tuning and performance out of the more expensive ones.


REAR SHOCK:
Stock Banshee (all years) will work *with slight modification of airbox*. The stock banshee shocks are more forgiving than the stock yfm shocks, and offer better adjustability. While the stock yfm shocks are only 2 way adjustable (preload and rebound) the Banshee shocks are 3 way (preload, compression, and rebound). As previously noted, a slight modification to the plastic airbox is necessary to make way for the piggyback reservoir. Most have simply removed the airbox, heated it up with a heat gun until the plastic is soft and pliable (not melting, smoldering, and on fire). Just heat the bottom sump of the box and push it in with something other than your bare skin to make a little clearance for where the reservoir will be sitting. If you have a UM or other aluminum airbox this should not be necessary. You can also get more creative with this mod, I hacked the whole sump off the box so it was level with the rest of the box, and formed and pop riveted in some light steel as a filler.

Stock 2001 Raptor 660 shocks will work *also involves some slight fabrication, creativity, or a lot of duct tape). The 660 shock is slightly longer than stock, so it will raise the rear ride height which can be undesirable, approximately 2 or 3 inches higher measured at the grab bar. The increased angle of the swingarm will also affect the chain adjustment some, it will have to be adjusted more often and in smaller increments to keep the slack correct throughout the stroke. The hose on the remote reservoir is shorter than the stock 350 line, so the stock reservoir mounting location wonít work. I mounted mine on the left side of the airbox with the stock mounting clamps and some wood screws into the airbox. Be careful about the size of the screws, you donít want to run one through your filter. Also watch that it is very secure, and everything is clear of the chain, if your mount comes loose the chain will annihilate that reservoir. I had mine almost completely hidden by the part of the rear fender that runs underneath the seat, with the reservoir angled so the compression adjustment screws are still easily accessible. Make sure youíre getting a 2001 660 rear shock, the 2002-up shocks use an offset piggyback reservoir which will not clear the swingarm. Take a look through the tutorials section and you should be able to find a short tutorial with pictures that I made when I installed the 660 on my warrior.

Rear shocks from 450ís, and all other newer machines will not work for various reasons, either different mounts, reservoir location, length, or whatever else.

Just like the front shocks, an aftermarket rear shock is going to be the best option for performance, but at a starting price of $460 for the bottom line Works shocks, itís a big investment. If you want aftermarket performance on a budget I would recommend getting a used Banshee shock and sending it out to TCS/Race Tech to get it rebuilt, revalved, and resprung for your machine and application.


ETC:
While weíre on the subject I will take the time to note that changes in width in the front suspension, whether it be from flipped or offset wheels, or wider aftermarket a-arms, will put additional leverage on the front shocks and can cause them to be softer and weaker. Because of this, you can actually lose some cornering ability and aggressive ridability with additional width if the shocks arenít changed accordingly. Same goes with the rear swingarm length, if you have an extended swingarm your rear shock will have more leverage on it and perform as if it is softer and weaker. Axle length will not affect the rear shockís performance.

Also keep in mind that shocks will lose performance over time. The oil will become contaminated, lose viscocity, and if/when the seals begin to leak the oil will run out, resulting in a "blown" shock. The springs will also lose their tension and become softer over time. Good deals can be found on used shocks on fleabay and other sources, but when possible try to be picky and get something no more than 5 years old. Even an older shock that appears to be in good physical shape and isn't leaking will be working at reduced performance. The biggest thing to watch for when buying a used shock other than obvious damage is oil or other evidence of leakage where the shaft enters the shock body, and pitting and damage to the exposed part of the shaft. The bushings on the shocks can also become worn and loose over time which will result in a clunky, loose feeling.


If anybody has any questions, comments, or additional information go ahead and post it up here instead of starting another thread on it.
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:33 PM   #2
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

this is my first write on the site and i must say this super imformative. Ive looking for this answer for mad long on atvconnection and never could get a straight answer. Along with the info here what would be the best way to set up the suspension on my warrior for jumps. I have a stock set up but am saving to invest in aftermarket. I'm not doing crazy jumps but im getting ballzy enough to wear it doesnt feel healthy for the bike the way it is. Any advice would help. I'm searching for a thread to kind of explain the whole preload and rebound situation.
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:36 PM   #3
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

also.... would it be recomended to make changes to the A-arms in conjuction with changing the shocks this way you wouldnt have to rebuild or buy a whole new setup
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:20 AM   #4
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

The front shocks are preload adjustable only, and the rear are preload and rebound. Neither of these adjustments play a very big factor in the bottom out resistance of the shock. If you're landing hard jumps there's not really any way around it except to get better shocks. The preload can increase the spring tension some, it's really only intended to adjust the sag when compensating for rider weight. You might notice a small improvement by increasing the preload, but not much.

The rebound controls how quickly the shock returns to it's normal ride height after it's compressed. This doesn't play much of a factor in a single jump, a section where a series of bumps or whoops are close in a row the rebound will make a difference though. Rebound set too slow (screw turned in) will cause the shock to "pack" because it doesn't have time to fully rebound before the next hit. Adjust the rebound too quickly and the back end will want to spring up, buck around, and kick you in the ass. You just need to play around with the settings and find a happy medium.

And yes, getting extended a-arms and aftermarket shocks at the same time is ideal, but even if you don't have the patence to save your money and do it all at once, at least keep in mind what your final result is going to be and purchase accordingly. If you know you're eventually getting +3 a-arms, order the shocks set up that way. It'll be a little stiff until you get the extended arms on it, but it's better than spending another 200 bucks to get the brand new shocks revalved and resprung a few months later.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:49 AM   #5
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

thanks for clearin that up for me. i kind of knew but this definetly makes more sense to me now.

do i have to buy that special wrench and Is it real easy to make adjustments on the fly or is it a small project to where i wont notice the difference each time i do it?
Also what kind of A-arm/suspension kit would be recomended for hittin jumps but yet not being too wide for fast trail riding. Shopping around seems to be the hardest thing ever when looking for warrior parts. i dont mean to be super picky but i know what kind riding i want to do, know what i mean.
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Old 08-14-2009, 01:17 PM   #6
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

^ DUDE, warrior shopping is the easiest thing ever compared to other to other ATVS out there. E-bay "warrior 350" and there is always at least 12-18 pages of stuff. Also check you local craigslist under the same search. Only fools with money pay full price for warrior parts, parts for a quad that is no longer in production. (that is unless you buying a-arms of shocks or any engine part)
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:53 AM   #7
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

i'm on ebay looking for stuff a lot but usually its just busted used gear. i'm trying to upgrade not buy parts i already have. I see the same things like often but I havent been able to find aftermarket foot pegs or a shifter. Im not sure what is interchangable yet

I see you have "floats" on your ride, how are they? what's the size arms do ride on?
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:31 AM   #8
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

Shifter is easy. Search out yz250 shifter. For foot-pegs search banshee 350 or raptor 350.

The floats are freakin amazing! (think I might need to get them factory spruced up here soon, maybe over the winter but they'll be fine for a long while) Riding on air is so nice. No need to dick around rider weight changes and shock performance. Its as easy as a few pumps and my whole riding style is changed. Worth every penny and yes I got them for hundreds off factory cost as well. It takes time and patience to fleebay and c-list hunt. I have +2 ASR a-arms.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:42 AM   #9
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

sweet im looking into it right now. i just bought a shifter from Rocky Mountain for 10 bucks, it just sucks that i hav to wait so long for shipping.

do you know if there's a post of what parts can be swapped from quad to quad? I figured most are compatable with each other
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:55 AM   #10
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

i went to denniskirk.com and found pegs for an 03 banshee. do you think they will fit or do i have to for look for stock banshee peg?
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:57 PM   #11
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

I just wanted to say that I just got a 2001 raptor 660 rear shock and wow! if your kinda heavy like myself spend the money and get one!!
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:01 AM   #12
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler
I just wanted to say that I just got a 2001 raptor 660 rear shock and wow! if your kinda heavy like myself spend the money and get one!!
How heavy are you? I am 6'3, 250 lbs and was looking for an affordable solution for the rear shock as well.
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:53 PM   #13
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

I'm 6'1, about 220-230, and yesterday me and this chick was riding on it at the same time she weighs about 140 plus me which is 360-370 lbs and the shock didn't even bottom out once and we ride on some pretty rough stuff. So im certain that this would be the shock you need. Just remember it has to be off a 2001 raptor 660. And here are a few pics I just took so you can see how it looks.





Rear end view


How I mounted the resivore
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:13 PM   #14
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

Noice! The quad is lookin good too man! Those Tusk nerfs are a good choice for the money. We need some pics of it all cleaned up.
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:21 PM   #15
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Default Will (insert shock here) shocks work for me?

Thanks!^ Right now I am working on a new head light hole cover, the old one was just something that i threw together in like 10 minutes. And im wanting to get some tusk heel guards and ims foot pegs like the ones in the picture below, I think they are off a z 400 or something like that. But the next thing im going to buy after I fix my electrical problem is the raptor 350 clutch setup. Did you see the new paint job on the frame, swing arm, and a arms? still haven't had time to post pics, Ive been doing alot of riding here lately. O ya and there are the razr tires I said I was going to get (They are aired up alot more than I usually run them.)


And this picture is of a warrior.
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