*AXLE BEARINGS - HOW TO CHANGE THEM*

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DeathShadow

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When your axle bearings are getting ready to take a **** you should replace them ASAP; if the bearings finally got so worn that they fell apart while riding you wouldn’t be to happy on the trail/and could possible get severely hurt. Also if you wait to the last second the bearings are a real BITCH to get out so it’s best to do it as soon as you can. This is no 15min. job and it does take some patience but it's worth doing on your own (most dealers will charge $120.00 + in labor to do it). Also if you want to tap/install a grease fitting on your carrier or put in a new axle NOW is the time to do it.

Tools/Items needed:

1. A short 4x4 piece of wood
2. A handheld but decent sledge hammer
3. Sockets & Wrench
4. Some steel wool
5. Anti-Seize, High Temp Grease, & some penetrating lube/oil
6. New Axle Bearings & Seals
7. A pretty large wrench to remove the large axle nuts (borrow one)
8. New cotter pins to replace the old one (cheap at Lowe’s or dealer)
9. Some **** to tap the bearings out and in (read below Step 8 & 9)
10. A friend, some food, beer, music, and patience

Step 1: First you want to remove the BIG NUTS on the left side of the axle holding it in place. You will need a pretty big adjustable/pipe wrench for this so if you don’t have one borrow one they can be expensive (or buy one and return it). Remove the large axle nut on the outside first by pulling up on the wrench. Then when you have removed the first one go ahead and remove the second one the same way; you may need someone to sit on the quad and hold the breaks while doing this to keep the quad from moving forward.

Step 2: You have now got the axle nuts off you must remove both wheels and remove the LEFT side hub (the one on the side of the axle nuts). To remove the hub just bend and remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut with a socket wrench then yank it off. The hub will probably be corroded onto the axle it is a good idea to clean the splines and put some anti-seize on it when you put it back together.

Step 3: You now have the quad propped up and the wheels and left hub removed - it is now time to remove the master link on the drive chain. With the quad in neutral rotate the chain around until you find the master link clip. When you find the master link clip remove it with a flat head screw driver/tapping it out and remove the master link as well by pulling it out with your hands or pliers. *Note: be sure not to lose any O-Rings, the master link clip, etc...* You now should pull your chain off and set it aside (clean it & lube it as well etc...).

Step 4: It is now time to remove the rear break caliper from the rotor. There are two 14mm bolts holding it in place (one on the top and one on the bottom) use a 14mm socket or wrench to remove them. When you have removed the bolts *PULL UP* on the caliper lifting it up off the rotor and lay it to the side (letting it hang there) out of the way.

Step 5: With the axle nuts, wheels, left hub, chain, and break caliper removed it is now time to remove the sprocket and its carrier/hub. Just grab the sprocket and pull it off to the left (towards the direction of the removed hub); if it gives you **** give it a good wiggle while pulling it and it should budge.

Step 6: HAVING FUN YET!? Well now it's time for the fun to really start! Start shooting the crevices of the axle carrier with penetrating lube to help this process along. Put the left side castle nut/wheel hub nut (what ever you want to call it) back onto the left side of the axle, get your 4x4 and put it up against it. Use a small hand held sledge hammer (one with some decent weight to it) and start banging the axle out (it comes out to the right so its a good idea while your banging on it have someone sit down, put there feet on the quad and pull the axle/hold the quad in place at the same time) by hitting the 4x4 against the castle nut with the sledge. This may take some time but you MUST NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE YOU WILL DAMAGE THE AXLE. Hit the wood against the castle nut hard and firm but don’t slam it. Watch the threads and the end of the axle near where you are hitting - if you see any signs of damage STOP and use less force.

Step 7: When you bang the axle out most of the way by hammer just pull it out. It is a good idea to use steel wool to clean the rust/corrosion off the splines (don’t damage them).

Step 8: Well now that you have the axle out its time to remove the BEARINGS from the carrier. Use a 6" socket extension, long piece of wood or metal, or something to TAP the bearings out. Just spray them with penetrating lube and tap them out with a hammer and w/e. There is also a steel collar inside the carrier; it is a good idea to clean this and the carrier itself real well with steel wool or a steel wire brush.

Step 9: Now that your carrier has been cleaned and the steel collar is back inside you can tap the new bearings back in. It is a good idea to fill the carrier full of grease (lots of it muah hahaha) but not so much that its gushing out the sides lol. Use a block of wood that fits over THE ENTIRE BEARING - DO NOT HIT IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BEARING YOU WILL DAMAGE IT. Tap the bearing in EVENLY ALL THE WAY IN until it stops, do the same for the other side and push in the new seals.

Step 10: Well you can now slide your axle ALL THE WAY back in (be careful not to damage the bearings or seals), put your sprocket and sprocket carrier back on, and put the large axle nuts back on. When you put your large axle nuts back on tighten the first one all the way against the sprocket carrier and wiggle the axle to make sure there is NO PLAY. Then once there is no play and this nut is nice and tight you can proceed to put the second axle nut on behind it. After you have done this you can now put your chain, hub (make sure you put on the new cotter pin and the old castle nut), wheels, and break caliper back on and your ready to go.

It may seem like a lot but you can do it; it will take about 2 hours Id say moving slowly and carefully.

- Death :cool:
 
how do u know when to change them??

Testing Axle Bearings 101:

1. First prop the back skid plate area of the quad up onto a raised crate/rock/wood/etc. so that both of the tires do not touch the ground.

2. Then grab a hold of the “middle” portion of the axle on both sides of the carrier with your hands and try to move the axle back and forth in a push/pull motion several times (push forward on the axle with your one hand and pull back on the axle with the other at the same time).

3. If you notice a real tiny bit of play your bearings are starting to go and should be replaced soon. If it has a decent amount of play you should replace the bearings ASAP.

*Good bearings will have a fraction of a little to no push/pull play at all.
 
ok cause i have a wierd creeking noise comin from that area I canot find exactly what its comin from tho and its pissin me off. I greased all my fitttings and evrything... syrayed lithum grease and wd-40 around the area its comin from and all on all the movable parts. I really only creeks when im riding and its bumpy or im on like a tilt. Have ya ever heard this noise before?? Do u have any clue whats cause it?? My chain is pretty loose but i dont think thats it.
 
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ok cause i have a wierd creeking noise comin from that area I canot find exactly what its comin from tho and its pissin me off. I greased all my fitttings and evrything... syrayed lithum grease and wd-40 around the area its comin from and all on all the movable parts. I really only creeks when im riding and its bumpy or im on like a tilt. Have ya ever heard this noise before?? Do u have any clue whats cause it?? My chain is pretty loose but i dont think thats it.

check your rear shock where it slids in and out.. mine will squek all the time spay that and see wht happens
 
ok cause i have a wierd creeking noise comin from that area I canot find exactly what its comin from tho and its pissin me off. I greased all my fitttings and evrything... syrayed lithum grease and wd-40 around the area its comin from and all on all the movable parts. I really only creeks when im riding and its bumpy or im on like a tilt. Have ya ever heard this noise before?? Do u have any clue whats cause it?? My chain is pretty loose but i dont think thats it.
My warrior was doing that ever since I got it and it drove me nuts because I couldn't figure out what it could be, it only did it when the ground I was riding on twisted or was rough and rocky. I replaced the axle bearings and that didn't fix the creaking. I eventually figured out that my swingarm bearings were worn out to the point that there wasn't really anything left of them. That must have been the reason it was creaking, it hasn't made the noises since I replaced them
 
hey thanx man im gonna check out a little more before i get ready to but new swinger bearings in her
 
im having a real problem with my axle hubs, they will not come off, removed the big nut but the hub is rusted onto the axle splines and nothing i do will even budge it, even took a pulley remover and clamped it onto the hub and put wood between the end of the axle and the wood split in half and the hub still did not move, i have drowned it in penetrating oil multiple times, the axle bearigns are very bad, the quad was poorly maintained, will heat help? im thinking about useing a torch to heat it up and maybe help work it loose from the rust

how much would a new rear section run? new axle/hubs etc, if i have to i will cutt the hubs off and replace it all, hopefully it wont come to that
 
i'd try heating up the hub with a torch, hopefully that will make enough size difference for it to slip off.
 
You need to get a socket extension and a hammer and bang all around the back of the hub near the axle real hard tell it breaks loose, or just bang all around the back of the hub with a hammer - just beat the crap out of it they wont break.

When in doubt beat the **** out.
 
yeah i have beat the hell out of them and they havent bent or broken, they just wont come off, these little b**tards seem like they are welded on :mad:
 
got the hub off, and it bent the hell out of it, i hit it alittle too hard and bent one of the arms that come off with the lug stud on them :mad:, guess i should probably make my own thread for this huh ;D

is it possible to get a new oem hub? or do i have to buy a set of aftermarket, is so.. where is the best place?
 
got the hub off, and it bent the hell out of it, i hit it alittle too hard and bent one of the arms that come off with the lug stud on them :mad:, guess i should probably make my own thread for this huh ;D

haha thats why I mentioned using a socket extension to tap it as close to the axle as you can; **** IT better then replacing the entire rear end assembly.
 
yup ::) never heat metal to the point where its glowing red, then pound on it with a hammer, it tends to bend, be careful removing stuck hubs, dont get impatient :mad:
 
ahh yeah heatin up metal weakens it . wht i owuld do is heat it up then put cold water on it right away. repeat about 3 times then reheat then it should come off easier but dont bang on it red hot
 
Usually the creaks come from the upper shock mount, even though it sounds like the swingarm. The upper mount doesn't have a zerk, so jacking the quad up and unbolting the shock up there is mandatory. Really not that difficult.
 
Usually the creaks come from the upper shock mount, even though it sounds like the swingarm. The upper mount doesn't have a zerk, so jacking the quad up and unbolting the shock up there is mandatory. Really not that difficult.

If you stand on your quad and rock from side to side and you hear the creak, or if its only happening when your going over ruff terrain its almost always the swingarm bearings!!! I would change those fuckers before it wears completely through the bearing sleeve - the needles are already gone...
 
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