How to check and adjust warrior valve clearance.

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hotcams77c

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Generally if youre a major motorhead like me and race, I check them every 4 races. Thats 1 time a month maybe once every 2 months. If you have an aftermarket cam, it will be noisy no matter what so just check em. Once you get used to adjusting them you will know what a "loud tick" and a "normal tick" with a cammed up engine is. Stock engine, mine will never sound the same, but just check youre valves as said so by the rest, every 6 months till ya start moddin it up .

How to check and maintain:
You will need:
17mm socket and ratchet set.
10 mm socket.
5mm allen wrech.
feeler guage set that has stock sizes (6-8 thousandths on the exhaust, 4-6 on the intake valve)(different if you have aftermarket cam, i set mine to what my engine builder says .003 intake and .004 on the exhaust)
BIG flat head screwdriver
4mm wrench
now youre ready.

Take off the crankcase timing mark cap, cam sprocket engine sidecover thing(on head), and valve covers.

Now while you have the socket on the bolt that is holding the cam sprocket on, spin the engine over with that while looking in the timing check hole on the crank. wait till the T (tdc) mark on the mag. lines up with the line on the case. The look up at youre cam sprocket and make sure that lines up with the line on the head. (make sure its a compression stroke).

Now while everythings lined up, take the 10mm and loosen the jamnuts on the tappits on the rocker arms. This will allow you to adjust the tappits up or down.
take youre feeler guage (stock specification clearance) and put it between the tappit and valve stem. then tighten the tappit down with the 4mm wrench and tighten the jamnut. Once done with both intake and exhaust valves, make sure jamnuts are TIGHT, and make sure you can fit the feeler guage you used back under the tappit but noting smaller or bigger.
Then put the valve covers, head side cover, case timing plug, and the tank back on and fire it up.

Unknown terms you might like to know (nooBs):
Tappit-called something else by yamaha....the bolt that is in the end of youre rocker arm once the valve cover is off....when engine is running it pushes down on valve stem...not hard to find.

Jamnut- the locknut that holds the tappit in place when tightened.

Feeler guages-like diff. thickness little paperlike stainless steel things used for measuring small clearances....will get pics of stuff next time i do mine.

Engine tdc: TDC means TOP DEAD CENTER. Its when youre piston is at the highest point in the combustion chamber it will ever get.

As for just checking them and possibly not having to adjust them:
Instead of loosening jamnut so you can adjust the tappit, just line all the markings up so the engine is tdc and then stick the specified thickness feeler guage between tappit and valve stem. make sure the right one fits. then see if a size bigger or smaller fits. if not, then youre in the clear (how i check mine).
 
Where do you find a 4mm wrench, I was looking at my local hardware/auto parts store and couldn't find anything below 6mm.
 
Where do you find a 4mm wrench, I was looking at my local hardware/auto parts store and couldn't find anything below 6mm.

Call the Snap-On guy thats were i got little wrenches
 
A 6 sided, 1/4", 5mm socket will work in place of a 4mm wrench. Also the actual valve adjusting tool with the 4mm and 10mm sockets is available from Dennis Kirk for about $40.
 
should you lap the valves when you do this also.....and this is for checking them not ajusting them right?

when u lap the valves u are taking the head off the motor and cleaning the valve sets up and u dont need to do it all the time the reason u lap the valvs is to clean all the carbon off the seats so the valvs will seat like new if u are not sure ask your dad or some one who noes what they are doing they should no how to ajust them right
 
i know how to lap them i just need to know how you ajust them.....do you just make sure the timing marks line up and the timing chain is tight?
 
pull the plug makes it easyer to turn over and take the valves caps off and pull the timing cover off and put the motor on tdc after that follow the rest of the procuders for ajust them from above relly quite easy to do
 
ye u have shims to play with now haha thats the bad thing about the race motors dont feel bad my 426 has the same setup
 
Got a few pics
Picture152.jpg

Removing the valve cover, 5mm allen
Picture153.jpg

The nut is 10mm, the stud is 4mm, place the feeler gauge under the stud and adjust the stud just enough till it's tough to remove feeler gauge, then tighten the nut. Do the same for the intake.
 
So I did all the steps listed in the 1st post but everytime I tried adjusting there was play in my rocker?? When im finding tdc my piston was almost all the way up and my markings were all lined up. My rocker still moved. Could not figure out what I was doing wrong. Any ideas?
 
there sholud be a little play in the rocker until the valve is opened. when your @ tdc, are you on compression or exhaust stroke? if compression both valves will have "play" in them. if exhaust only the intake should have play since the exhaust valve will be opened
 
I thought you couldnt adjust the valves when there is movement? How do you know if your in an exhaust stroke or a compression stroke?
 
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