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Old 12-26-2012, 11:45 AM   #1
JRK5892
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Default Warrior Dual HID how to

out at the shop we do A TON of night time riding... so naturally i wanted better lighting. so i use HID in most of the bikes i build so i figured i would add it to the quad as well... pretty simple actually.. here is a write up

Tools needed:
soldering iron
shrink wrap
solder (flux if you do not have inline flux solder)
phillips head screwdriver (#1,#2)
12mm socket
10mm socket
wire cutters
wire strippers
H6m HID kit (i used a cheap $31 shipped kit and have several times on bikes, works great)
denatured alcohol
rag
2 long zip ties

Removal
- start out by taking the 12mm and 10mm sockets and remove the mount bolts that support the lamps. Unplug the 2 sockets going to the lights.

- separate the lights from the mount and place the mount to the side

- using the #2 remove the lower phillips head screw from the bottom, this will allow you to remove the front grill from the light (at this point you can use the #1 and remove the adjuster screw from the headlight to allow you easy access to clean the lamp lens. i opted to do this as you have to re aim your lights anyway. this is not a required step)

Wiring
- cut the plug sockets off the back of the lamps leaving a good 2 or 3 inches of wire

- from here take your HID kit and cut off the stock pins and strip the wire a bit back.

- you will not be able to run high low as these are single stage HID (i was going to run low as 1 lamp and high as 2 lamps, however the residual current that flows though the high when the low is on is enough to turn on the HID ballast so the lamp will light up, i did not feel like adding a resister to it to keep this from happening so i just made them both light up)

- connect the green and yellow wire to the red line on the HID kit harness plug, and black to black. Solder these in and shrink wrap them







- once both sides have been soldered slide your full shrink wrap over the loose wires and heat that up to secure everything.

ballast install
- i found that the ballasts fit really well at the top of the steering column plastics, you do not have to mount here but it is pretty easy.

- clean off the contact area with some denatured alcohol. Apply the supplied adhesives to the back of the ballasts. I choose this spot to mount mine as there was a good amount of metal to run the zip tie around and over the ballast to support it and ensure that adhesive tape holds it in place



both ballasts mounted


re assembly
- re install the lamp into the bucket and put back in the #2 philips head screw to hold it in place, run the wire out the back of the lamp

- install the 2 - 12mm bolts that mount the lights to the light rack

- plug in the lights to the ballasts and ensure wires are properly routed and tied down

- install the 2-10mm bolts and the 12mm light mount supports (add a drop of blue loc tite to the bolts)

all done



took it outside to aim the lamps




few pics from riding at night... bear in mind it is really tough to take a picture of light output, but i can tell you it is at least 3x's as good as the stock set up. i can run wide open down the trails with clear visibility


















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Old 12-26-2012, 02:17 PM   #2
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You could probably use a diode to keep from back-feeding current to the second ballast when running just low beams for a single light. The other thing i might suggest is, those ballasts can pull quite a bit of current, i'd probably wire them up to a relay so you don't melt your stock headlight wiring.

I have a set of HID's i was thinking of doing this with, i was thinking of using a second set of lights for low and the HID's for high since i usually run with lights on even during the day, and would rather not have them on all the time.

Looks awesome tho!
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:18 PM   #3
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if they where the 55 watt i would completely agree but even durring power up the spike will not be enough to cause issues to the stock wire for the 35 watts. when i do the 55 watt kits i ALWAYS use a relay, but on the 55 watt kits i am not a fan of the glare you get form them so i usually will always recomend a 35 watt set up. then again i could be completely wrong. i know that typically on current issues the lights will flicker and/or flash and these hold strong at idol and under power. never had an issue with the 15 or so set ups we have done on bikes, but that is also typically 1 ballast (except some sport bikes where we run 2) i will keep an eye on this and give back a ride report later. i have about 12 hours of run time on them so far and so far so good. great idea on the Diode! man that should do the trick! but to be honest now that i have run both of them, i dont think i will ever just run one hahahaha they are way to nice and bright! i do really like the idea of setting up some eagle eye LED's to be my day time running lights though. i will prob do something like that!
thanks for the tip though i will pay attention to that and give a ride report on if the wiring becomes an issue

Power consumption: 35watts
Voltage: 85V +/- 17V
Luminous flux: 2800
Service Life: up to 3000hrs
Input Voltage: 9V-16V
Working current (Steady state): 3.5 A nom
Ignition voltage: 24kV Peak Max, 18kV Peak Min
Lamp Frequency: 450 Hz
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:39 PM   #4
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Ah, yeah could be a lower watt setup, the ones i have were pulled out of an F150, so they could very well be higher wattage. They are crazy bright tho
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:48 PM   #5
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100% i have HID in every vehicle i own hahaha no better IMO! do them on the quad you will not regret it!
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:57 AM   #6
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AWESOME write-up! Thanks!!!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:01 AM   #7
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hey man nice write up! i gotta ask though, what size front tire are you running?
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96yamahawarrior View Post
hey man nice write up! i gotta ask though, what size front tire are you running?
Yah. They look like same size as the rear.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:33 PM   #9
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22 x 11 x 10 fronts tires, 25 x 12 x 9 rear tires with a 10 -42 gear set.
2008 350 Raptor engine, all raptor drive, suspension, controls, carb etc. handles awesome! I was gonna swap them out to skinnier when I picked it up but with the gearing work an how the motor is set up it handles great and is a blast to ride so for now the wheels will remain as is
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:38 PM   #10
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Hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus View Post
You could probably use a diode to keep from back-feeding current to the second ballast when running just low beams for a single light. The other thing i might suggest is, those ballasts can pull quite a bit of current, i'd probably wire them up to a relay so you don't melt your stock headlight wiring.

I have a set of HID's i was thinking of doing this with, i was thinking of using a second set of lights for low and the HID's for high since i usually run with lights on even during the day, and would rather not have them on all the time.

Looks awesome tho!

Any idea what type of diode could be used to keep from feeding back ?? I tried connecting 1 light to both high and low and the other to high only. When i flipped the lights on low both lights came on and same for high. Had to be feeding back on low.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:04 PM   #11
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I have never used the Diode... but i would guess this kit here would do it for you
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Conversi...19dedc&vxp=mtr

if it works let me know i may consider doing the same
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:19 PM   #12
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Im not sure but I dont think it would work, I dont wonna order till im sure... Do we have an electronics genius handy ?? I was told a diode was for ac current and was not sure how it would work on dc
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:28 PM   #13
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This should work. The diode keeps the power from the low beam wire feeding through the high beam wire and into the second ballast.

I would almost run a second diode on the low side to keep power from feeding back to the switch when the high beams are switched on, but i don't think it's anything to worry about as it should just dead end at the switch and not ground out or anything.

Diode's work fine with D/C. The D in LED stands for Diode, and they work just fine in automotive applications. Nothing to worry about there. all they do is block current from flowing one way. Basically an electrical check valve.

You should be able to just use a simple diode from radio shack or whatever, shouldn't be more than a few bucks.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:17 AM   #14
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I installed a Rectifier Diode (3amp-50piv) seems to work but the diode is getting very hot... Im gonna figure something else out whether its a differt diode or a totally different idea.. I do have 1 light on dim and both on high though..
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:07 PM   #15
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I'm sure you're pulling more than 3 amps through the light circuit, i'd see if you can find a diode rated for at least 10 amps, or run relays so you aren't pulling so much amperage through the switched side.
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