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Old 05-08-2005, 04:15 AM   #1
DeathShadow
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

Well in this tutorial I will be going over some of the helpful techniques I’ve used over the years to remove corroded bolts and other things on the quad. Although a basic tutorial I believe this will help some people out since I see questions regarding removing stuck bolts, bearings, hubs, etc... quite often.

Leverage: One of the best tools in my tool box is a 3 1/2 foot long 3/4" diameter steel pipe. This pipe is used for beating minorities ;) and getting lots of leverage on those stuck corroded bolts. Often I use this tool with Hex keys or other standard/socket wrenches when I can't get the nut off with them solo. You simply place the wrench, socket wrench, or hex key on the nut/bolt you’re trying to remove then slide one end of the pipe over the other end of the wrench/hex key. You then grab the other end of the pipe and push down easily but with force - "CRACK" you can hear the corroded crap break away and the bolt breaks free. When dealing with bolts that get to this point it is best to put anti-seize on the threads before putting them back in. This technique also works really well removing stuck bolts with thread locker on them. If you don’t have one of these pipes get one – they are awesome X_X!

Hammer Tapping: Sometimes a stubborn bolt, hub, rotor, bearing, etc... only needs a good whack to the right area to break loose. For this I use a 6" socket extension and a hammer. To remove hubs that have been corroded on place the socket end of the 6" extension on the back bottom part of the hub closest to the splines. Give the end of the socket extension a few good whacks and the hub should break free; to remove a stubborn front rotor do the same thing placing the 6" extension on the back towards the bottom where the rotor connects or contacts metal. To help break up corrosion when trying to remove stubborn bolts whack on the head of the bolt all around evenly and apply penetrating lube. This will help break corrosion up and let the lube seep in better. When trying to remove a bearing it is best to use something that is about the same size as the bearing and then whack away. This allows the impact to be spread evenly and will be much more effective (penetrating lube here as well).

Penetrating lube: There are many brands in the store that do the same thing and they mostly all work fairly well. The products pretty much are a solvent/gunk eater that deteriorate corrosion deposits and free up the stuck bolt, hub, etc... This stuff should be used in conjunction with all the techniques mention in this tutorial for the best results and is readily available in most hardware/convenience/major retail stores.

Philips head screws: Most of us dread Philips head screws on a quad when they get stuck because they are cheap and have a tendency to strip if your screw driver doesn’t fit perfectly (and even when it does it's a shot in the dark). To severely decrease the risk of stripping the screw out take a hammer and bang on the end of the screw driver driving it into the screw snugly. You then want to apply some penetrating lube and lots of down force/pressure on the screw driver and turn at the same time. If you end up stripping the head it is time to resort to screw extraction (explained below). If however you got lucky and got the screw out go and buy some hex bolt replacements with the same pitch.

Reverse Drill Bits/screw extractor: These kits are readily available in most hardware stores and other major retail stores (Wal-Mart); they aren’t to expensive at all and have saved my ass many many times. A screw extractor pretty much is a drill bit with reversed threads on it so when you use a drill to turn the bit it backs the bolt out. But (yes there is always a but) it takes a little bit of effort to get to the point where you can use these; some prep work is required first. Before you can use these bits you must bore the correct size hole in the top of the screw with a drill. Once you have drilled a hole in it you then take the screw extractor bit and tap it down into the hole with a hammer. You then insert it into your drill and apply lots of down pressure and let her rip; the screw will normally back the fuck out. If it didn't work you must bore a deeper hole and try again.

Setaline Torch: When all else fails its tome to break out the torch and burn shit. You want to heat that fucker up tell its nice and cherry red and yank the bitch out. Sometimes you just need to re-tap and use a Helicoil.

Header studs/nuts: To free stuck header nuts/studs (commonly happens on Warriors and other header studs) use a torch. Heat up the area around the studs for a bit. With a glove and wrench in hand try and remove the stud/nut - it should slowly give and allow you to unscrew it. The Cylinder head expands much more then the stud when heated allowing you to unscrew it. When you come across a stubborn header stud/bolt while trying to get your header off STOP and use this method; you can BREAK the stud EASILY inside the head when applying to much force attempting to break it free.

Anti-Seize: Anti-Seize is a finely ground graphite compound commonly (sometimes its Al flakes and copper) mixed with grease and other chemicals that is applied to bolt threads to effectively reduce/stop corrosion. You should apply this stuff to all bolts that are exposed to lots of water, dirt, and don’t get removed to often or to bolts you always have trouble removing. This stuff is a bitch to get off your hands though so be careful; its readily available at most auto parts stores.

Using the right size socket, hex key, etc…: On a last note I will say that MANY people strip shit out that would of been fine because they use the wrong size tool. If the socket, wrench, hex key doesn’t fit snugly DON’T use it – it doesn’t fit. When removing bolts that require a lot of torque this is the worst thing you can do. I also recommend using six point sockets instead of twelve on things such as lug nuts and high torque applications to prevent stripping…

Well I am done preaching here today - I hope this helps some people remove shit with out breaking bolts or stripping shit out. If anyone can think of any more methods just post them in here.

- Death



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Old 05-11-2005, 08:47 PM   #2
sexy99warrior
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

I like steel pipes for leverage...also for beating mulitpull minorities like you stated.. ;D
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Old 06-21-2005, 04:43 PM   #3
yfm350raptor
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

Nice tutorial, i know a couple of those tricks will come in handy.....Now all i need is for yamaha to make some strong bolts that dont snap in half!
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Old 10-02-2005, 01:45 PM   #4
hoover
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

Another good trick on phillips heads (like the screws of the damned carburetor bowl)

Get some needle nose vise grips and twist it loose and then you can back it off with a screwdriver with no damage done whatsoever.

When some hoss puts your lug nuts on when your not looking and it comes time to swap tires and they are stuck, get a 1 foot extension and a ratchet and the 14mm socket...now, get the stubborn lug nut to the top of the hub by rolling the quad and put the ratchet assembly on and everybody knows you cant stand on it to break it loose, but you can put something like a jack stand (my favorite)under the extension and it gives you a solid surface and you can actually stand on the ratchet and BAM off they come...people rejoice when i do this at riding areas...

-Hoover
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Old 10-04-2005, 05:23 PM   #5
350rappy
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

the methodas i use are
leverage
hammer
lube
torch
and vice grips 4 that pesky carb float bowl
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:28 PM   #6
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

you could also when you strip out a philips head screw.. if you have a dremil tool cut a slot in it and make it a strait slot screw.. but becarefull bot to go to far and once you get out you screw get a hex xrew likw death said above
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:24 PM   #7
timmey27
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

thanks for the tutrial death, it is really helpfull...we got 9 atv`s
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:52 PM   #8
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

I just pulled off my damaged header....and cracked off the head of both bolts....

How am I going to get them out???
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:54 PM   #9
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101


Quote:
I just pulled off my damaged header....and cracked off the head of both bolts....

How am I going to get them out???
Take it to a shop with experiance - its gonna be a tuff and painful job. They are also going to have to put in two helicoils.
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:53 AM   #10
rexx
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

Helicoils???
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Old 01-25-2006, 05:22 PM   #11
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

when you get those stubburn minorities that wont get out sometimes you can take the pipe and swing it in a circle and if you hit them in the right place they will bust loose and get out

be sure to clean yp and minoric liquid that may leak out of the object
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Old 01-30-2006, 04:33 PM   #12
boxhead
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

If you have a stripped bolt or screw of any kind you can tap a chisel into the outside of it to form a notch and then whack it at a tangeant to the rotation to crack them free. This technique does wonders in hard to reach places and also on many forms of screws that are smooth and tough to grip by any other means. It's surprising what a hammer impact can do to screws, and the best part about it is that you'll never damage anything but the already fouled hardware.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:08 PM   #13
DeathShadow
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

To free stuck header bolts (commonly happens on Warriors and other header studs) use a torch. Heat up the area around the studs for a bit. With a glove and wrench in hand try and remove the stud/nut - it should slowly give and allow you to unscrew it. The Cylinder head expands much more then the stud when heated allowing you to unscrew it. When you come across a stubborn header stud/bolt while trying to get your header off STOP and use this method; you can BREAK the stud EASILY inside the head when applying to much force attempting to break it free.
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Old 05-28-2006, 01:03 PM   #14
01warriorkid
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

how do i get my oil screw out to change my oil its reallly badly stuck?
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Old 05-28-2006, 02:02 PM   #15
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Default Removing stuck bolts, hubs, bearings, etc... 101

Chisel and a hammer. Yes, i'm being serious. First stand the quad up on the grab bar. Put the chisel on the skirt of the drain plug, at about a 45 degree angle in the direction you want to turn the plug. Tap the chisel with a hammer lightly to get a notch in the plug, then hit it a little harder if you have to in order to get the plug to break loose. I had to do this a few times, because for some reason mine always gets stuck no matter how loose I screw it in.

When you unscrew the drain a spring and strainer will come out with it. Pay attention to the order these come out in so you know how to put them back in.
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