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97warrior_rider

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Hey guys not warrior related so this pertains to all the ac guys on here I work in a shop but ac service is one of the few things we don't service. What would cause a 2008 Mazda 3 to not draw in r134a as well as not engage the compressor clutch


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i work on commercial refrigeration. so I'm not that familiar with automotive. but if the compressor isn't running it can't draw refrigerant into the system. i have never seen any type of refrigeration system without a low pressure cut-out. that maybe the problem or a fuse or relay could be bad or the compressor clutch could be bad.

actually while i was writing this i found this web site that may be of some help
http://aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm
 
what exactly is the issue and what are you trying to do? are you trying to add freon? or is the a/c just not engaging? need some more background info to help.
 
Basically what happened was we took a trip about 400 miles round trip to our cabin. Roughly 2100 feet elevation to 9,000 feet in elevation. Long story short on the way up the ac worked great but as we got to about 50 miles from home we turned it on and just got hot air I have mild ac experience so first checked the freon level after establishing there was no freon we decided it would be best to vac the system down and start from scratch after vac. We started to recharge the system as normal ac on full blast and started to charge the system it took about a full can of 134a and roughly half the second can before it refused to take any more according to Mazda it should hold 1.2lbs in the system at full charge this seemed odd to me because my low side spiked from 0-120 and the high side stayed right at 98 no matter what I did


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compressor does two things. suction side is trying to pull into a vacuum and the discharge side is pumping the pressure way up. the compressor does a lot to create the high side and low side pressures. (no different than the piston in your engine) if it is not running the system will be sitting in a static state. eventually both high and low sides will equalize to a pressure equivalent to the air temperature.

why compressor isn't running sounds like an electrical issue. fuse, relay, or clutch.

but it also sounds like you may have some other issues. if the system was completely empty when you first checked it? that means it lost the charge very quickly and you have a good sized leak in the system.
 
thought of another thing. are you sure the clutch isn't engaging and compressor not running? a bad compressor can run static (high and low side equalized). you vacuumed the system and recharged. did you dump the charge into the high side or low side? a compressor is a vapor pump. not made to handle liquid. if you dump liquid refrigerant into the low side, you may have slugged the compressor and blew it up.

not 100% sure about automotive but with refrigeration you pull the system into a deep vacuum and weigh the charge into the high side.

if I weren't 2000 miles away , I'd say bring it over and I'd check it out
 
We vacuumed it down and charged with 134a in the low side but we've done this many times before with out fault. Can was upright so only vapor,I'm very sure the clutch is not engaging I can see the three points on the clutch sitting still when the ac is at full blast


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I wouldn't say it was empty per say but very low freon level and over charged it seemed like my low side gauge maxs at 150kpa and it was pegged


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I'll be 100% honest I'm about to give the wife my 2010 Silverado so she will stop complaining about ac ha ha I get its 100* out here already but my truck is my baby I gotta figure this **** out


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it was a whopping 52* here today and I thought that was warm. temperature and pressure are related. being 100* the refrigerant would be somewhere @ 150 psi. you don't see the clutch engaging, I'd go back to the electrical. fuse, relay, switch or even the clutch.

wish I could be of more help. can't let your wife drive your truck
 
I hear ya there bud ha ha I appreciate it and I will go out and check the fuses and such is there a way to check a relay the switch seemed to check out could it be a plugged orphis tube ?


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i would't think orifice tube. that is the expansion valve (changing refrigerant from high to low pressure) if your clutch isn't engaging then your compressor isn't running so nothing in refrigeration system is doing anything.

the whole problem seems why the clutch isn't engaging. all I can see is that it creates ad magnetic field to engage the clutch. if there is not power to the clutch then something in line is bad. if power is at the clutch then the clutch is bad.
 
clutch should spin freely until you turn air conditioning on. then it should lock to spin the compressor pump. that's what appears to be your problem, the compressor pump isn't spinning.
 
I don't think you can test an automotive relay. it's probably a little inch by inch box. they are only like $12 at autoparts store. or door locks or something non-vital may use the same relay, just swap them out
 
c4f7e243314c03858d194cf043e9ab50.jpg

Think this will do the trick?


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hopefully that does it. I think it will. you may also have to adjust the refrigerant charge some after it is running. off the top of my head you should be @35psi low side and 180psi high side. i'll post you a more accurate after I dig through the van and find that stuff
 
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