89 yamaha warrior 350 overhaul

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89warrior408

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i recently bought an blown up, beat up, destroyed warrior for $100 on Craigslist.
When I bought it I had a general idea of the condition. the seller hadn't posted and pictures so it was a guessing game for me all the posting said that the engine needed rebuilt and needed rims and tires. I bought it on instinct. I pulled the engine apart and found a massive amount of metal shavings, a destroyed rod, no piston. I keep finding pieces of copper, chunks of piston and rings.
I'm just wondering what the pieces of copper are from? And how screwed do you think I am?
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My guess it would be a piston pin bushing. But with chunks that big it don't matter. That engine is toast. You will be looking at a complete rebuild and might even find the case is destroyed. It will take a complete tear down before you know.
 
Sell the frame and other parts & make your 100$ back. Or buy another warrior and use it for parts. I wish I had a parts bike for 100$
 
If it was mine, I would be looking for an engine. Something in the twin cylinder range. Out of an older street bike. You would loose revers, but gain a cool atv. I am sure its been done a lot, and I might even build one someday.
 
I've already bought a used crank and head, and the guy before me had the cylinder resleeved the cylinder and bored .50 over too. The left case that holds the cam guides in are also destroyed
 
Update!

As of today, my used case halves came in the mail and so did my wiseco top end kit, on Monday im going to start doing port work and polishing them and my intake manifold. And I'm waiting for my piston, carb, valves, cam tensioner. I'm also debating on wether or not to get my used crank rebuilt, or risk the main bearing being spun out..
 
As of today, my used case halves came in the mail and so did my wiseco top end kit, on Monday im going to start doing port work and polishing them and my intake manifold. And I'm waiting for my piston, carb, valves, cam tensioner. I'm also debating on wether or not to get my used crank rebuilt, or risk the main bearing being spun out..

You can't spin the crank bearings in a warrior. They are roller bearings. :)
If it has no movement up and down I'd run it.
 
Crank bearings are easily replaced. You don't need to press them on. They are a slip fit type bearing. Replacing the rod, it's bearing and crank pin are a good idea. However, if the thrust play (measured with a feeler gauge between the rod and crank lobe) is within tolerance and the rod has no up and down play, it is generally okay to use.
 
Yeah I had the crank inspected today and was told it was in good shape


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I also painted my a-arms today.. Opinions?


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Do you guys have any idea what this is supposed to be, it's part 21, it's the throttle cable but what is the box that is attached to the cable
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The first gens ran a dual cable set up. So the box is a splitter. Makes the single cable into two.
 
But if one goes to the carb does one go to throttle override?


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The thumb throttle gets the single side at the handle bar. The two cables after the splitter are both ran into the carb. I think one controls the carb's slide and the other controls the butterfly flap. On the later model warriors, the carbs were converted to a single cable and a linkage that controls both the slide and butterfly flap together.
 
By the way, you have either an 87 or an 88, because those are replaceable ball joints. Only two years they had that. Have the dual throttle cable is also indicative of and 88. I don't recall the 87 having the two cables going to the carb. Pretty sure that had a single cable like the newer machines (1991[?]-up).
 
I was told when I bought i was told it was an 89


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What gearing should I run now? I have 14 front and 40 rear, how does it feel? I'm looking for gearing so I can do wheelies?
 
Well, it's not an 89. The tenth character of the vin is the year designation. H for 87, J for 88.

14/40 works very well. Going down an inch or two on the rear tires really works well with that gearing.
 
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